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Just Open: Billykart West End, Brisbane

Natascha Mirosch

Brisbane chef Ben O'Donoghue at his second Billykart eatery.
Brisbane chef Ben O'Donoghue at his second Billykart eatery.Glenn Hunt

Ben O'Donoghue is having a big week. Not only is the celebrity chef back on the small screen with a new barbecue reality TV show, but he opened the doors of Billykart West End on Tuesday.

Billykart Kitchen's new sibling will have some pretty stiff competition in the breakfast-centric environs of West End, but O'Donoghue is confident they can mix it with the best.

"We make almost everything in-house, from our nut milks to our crumpets to kefir, fermented butter, sprouted seed bread and even the clotted cream," he says.

Croque madame (poached eggs, hollandaise and salmon) on potato waffles.
Croque madame (poached eggs, hollandaise and salmon) on potato waffles.Glenn Hunt
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The breakfast menu is globally roaming; from carne asada​ with fried eggs, habanero salsa, chicharrones and corn tortilla ($18.50); to a spanner crab and scallop congee ($17.50).

Lunches wander from potato waffle croque madame ($18.50) to yoghurt-baked fish of the day with walnut and fennel crust and smashed pumpkin ($32).

Housed in the Aria Botanica residential complex, Billykart West End feels more contemporary than Billykart Kitchen in Annerley. Architect Angus Munro has taken elements of the original eatery, housed in a former corner store cottage, and incorporated them into the new venue. The back wall features textured coloured glass window frames and there are nods to fence palings and verandah lattice work.

Billykart West End's interior features textured coloured glass.
Billykart West End's interior features textured coloured glass.Glenn Hunt

"The idea is to connect it to the neighbourhood, just like the Annerley Billykart," O'Donoghue says. "We're trying to reflect back the local community, and the typical architecture of the West End."

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Seating for about 96 is at quilted black banquettes or a communal table.

Chef Scott Webster, a Briton who has been in Brisbane (via a stint in South Australia) for just over four weeks, says he's embracing the early hours and strong breakfast culture.

Billykart brownie with ganache, white chocolate tuile and honeycomb.
Billykart brownie with ganache, white chocolate tuile and honeycomb.Glenn Hunt

"I didn't really know too much about Australian food or Brisbane so it's been a great surprise, particularly the breakfasts. A breakfast for me in the UK is a fry-up but here it's so much better – a whole other level."

It's the third Brisbane venue for O'Donoghue, who also owns Billykart Kitchen and had an interest in South Bank Surf Club until 2012. O'Donoghue and wife Dee have gone into partnership with former surf club manager Ben Roberts in the new restaurant.

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Billykart Provisions is set to open next door in the next week or so, selling wine, beer, charcuterie, cheese and bread as well as quail, duck and other poultry cooked on the churrasco grill.

Billykart West End is open for breakfast and lunch daily from 7am and will open for dinner nightly from Thursday.

O'Donoghue's new show Aussie Barbecue Heroes premieres 7.30pm Wednesday on Seven.

Billykart West End, 2 Edmonston Street, West End, billykartkitchen.com

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