Just Open: B'Stilla Cantina launches full menu

The gas company has come to the B'Stilla Cantina party, which means you can now get a side of charred octopus with your ceviche and oysters at the Fitzroy outpost of Jason Jones's South Yarra Moroccan restaurant.

In case you missed the mini saga, Jones learned that the gas company was going to be a month late hooking the venue up and made plans to operate as a raw bar during that time. The connection was subsequently rushed through when that information hit the news.

The tiny, 48-seat Cantina is now in full swing, even if it only looks half finished. The name is written in permanent marker over the old San Churro tiles and the outdoor tables (accounting for half the seating) are covered in the cheap, flowery plastic tablecloths favoured by CWA groups nationwide.

This is simple, substantial street food - the format is similar to that of Jimmy Grants, only with Middle Eastern/Spanish flavours instead of Greek. You're looking at roasted cauliflower salads creamed up with tahini, and big Turkish buns stuffed with crisp potatoes, cream cheese, coriander and harissa mayo, with the occasional special like a bright and limey snapper ceviche.

Sandwich-type foods dominate. There are spiced pulled lamb roti wraps for $10 and smaller versions (rfissa), still served on roti, but constructed like a taco for $5, with fillings like beef rib or vegetable tagine and yoghurt.

The booze licence is in full effect too, so you can also up the ante with a craft beer, Champagne (hey!) or a shot of tequila and sangrita (spicy, citrusy tomato juice). Or get your kicks from a tall, sweet Moroccan iced coffee sweetened with honey. Fire it up.

B'Stilla Cantina, 277B Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, 9417 2858, bstilla.com. Wednesday-Monday, noon-midnight.