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Just Open: Cheekyburger serves American-style smashed patties in Paddington

Ruby Lohman

Cheekyburger joins Sydney's burgeoning burger scene.
Cheekyburger joins Sydney's burgeoning burger scene.Supplied

Sick of burgers yet? Neither are we. And this time around it's Paddington's turn. From the Mary's school of American-style smashed burgers comes Cheekyburger, and it's sparking some excitement on Oxford Street.

Co-owner Sam Marsh (who's also behind Crate Bar & Pizza down the road) spent a few months researching in the US, then set out to create a New York-style burger joint where punters could grab some no-nonsense takeaway or settle in and get a bit boozy.

"I think of us as a cross between In-N-Out Burger and a Brooklyn dive bar," Marsh says. "We want to have fun, and we don't take ourselves too seriously."

American-style smashed burger patties at Cheekyburger.
American-style smashed burger patties at Cheekyburger.Supplied
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Cheekyburger's narrow shopfront ripples with corrugated iron and opens out into a courtyard splashed with red, white and yellow. There are red-leather booths, bare bricks and murals by Sydney street artist Mike Watt.

But in a city approaching maximum burger capacity, does this latest venture deserve your dollar? Here's all you need to know.

1. The burgers are a straight-up, all-American good time

Cheekyburger's corrugated-iron clad interior.
Cheekyburger's corrugated-iron clad interior.Supplied

Cheekyburger's tagline is "unapologetic burgers and booze".

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"We don't do substitutions, we don't put lettuce and tomato on our burgers," Marsh says.

There are seven burgers, including the signature "cheeky cheeseburger": a soft and scrunchy white bun clutching a glorious mess of beef, pickles and melted cheese. Others include the "cheeky doublecheese", "Philly cheesesteak" and shroom burger, plus a fried-chicken burger on Thursdays only.

Marsh is reluctant to reveal where he sources ingredients, but says he spent a lot of time finding the right buns, beef, cheese and pickles – all from Sydney-based suppliers. The beef is 40 per cent chuck, 40 per cent brisket and 20 per cent fat for a rich, juicy patty.

2. It's not just about the bread

The menu runs the gauntlet of nutritious American fast-food classics: French fries and yam fries, deep-fried pickles, cornbread, buffalo wings and mac 'n' cheese.

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Sweets include ice-cream sandwiches and New York cheesecake, and there's a dessert burger on the way featuring a chocolate cake bun and fried pineapple "patty".

3. It's licensed

Marsh has a background in booze, including a three-year stint behind Merivale bars, but don't expect a who's who in craft beer. There's Miller Genuine Draft and Resch's on tap, and around eight beers by the bottle or can (including VB tinnies), with more American imports coming soon.

There's a handful of cocktails, and for an extra fun time you can add a shot to a milkshake; a bourbon and salted caramel shake doesn't sound like the worst thing.

4. It's open for weekend brunch

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If you've hung out in New York and craved bacon and eggs on a Wednesday, you'll know those crazy folk only do brunch on weekends. But they do it properly, rarely eating before midday and always incorporating alcohol.

Marsh wants to see a similar brunch culture in Sydney, and plans to refine Cheekyburger's short brunch menu over time. For now, it includes a cheeseburger with a fried egg, a pancake stack, and steak and eggs, as well as Campos coffee and $10 bloody Marys and mimosas.

5. They take bookings

Say what? Yes, you can book a table out the back. A burger you don't have to line up for? Now there's nothing cheeky about that.

Open Tue-Sat 11am-late; Sun 11am-10pm.

Cheekyburger, 312 Oxford Street, Paddington, 9331 7436, cheekyburgerbar.com

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