After nearly two months with their foot on the brakes because of issues with neighbours, new city eatery Chow City has finally opened. Previously a rather daggy Thai restaurant, a slick refit has upped the street cred. There's a dedicated dining room off to one side, all high tables and a communal for 20, but the pick is the main bar - perch on a swivelling stool and cool off with kaffir lime ice blocks floating in gin.
The pan-Asian menu from head chef Kim-Maree Moore (ex MoVida, Happy Palace) leans toward co-owner Thu Famidi's Vietnamese heritage; there's plenty of fish sauce, roasted rice and microherbs. Look for things like blue-eye ceviche with young coconut, nuoc cham and finger lime, crying tiger beef salad and slow-roasted kurobuta pork belly with green mango. The $15 express lunchbox on weekdays is good value. It's all designed to go down fast and easy. Order a little or order a lot - Chow City does not care if you share.
Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-3pm, 5-11pm.
Chow City, 287 Exhibition Street, Melbourne, 9663 7898, chowcity.com.au
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