Just Open: Coppa Spuntino, Brisbane CBD

It seems Brisbane is reigniting its love affair with Italian cuisine. In recent months Marchetti Cafe and Jamie's Italian have opened to great enthusiasm within a stone's throw of each other. And joining them in the CBD is Italian bar Coppa Spuntino, which opened on Wednesday.

Coppa owners Bonnie Shearston and Tom Sanceau are also behind the bang on-trend American diner Red Hook in Gresham Lane and the one-hatted Public Restaurant & Bar in George Street.

Sanceau says he loves "the simplicity" of Italian food and has long wanted to open an Italian eatery. When the site - in front of Red Hook in Creek Street - came up suddenly, the pair decided to go for it.

The venue seats about 65 patrons at tables inside and out, and at a sit-up bar.

Coppa's menu has a strong representation of "spuntino" - small Italian snacks often served in bars.

There's a sexy version of the oft-abused bruschetta, here with lardo (pork backfat), tarragon and radish; smoked ham hock terrine with ciabatta; and pork, pecorino and fennel meatballs.

More substantial offerings include gnocchi with kale, walnut and truffle; and stuffed baby squid with salsiccia and caponata. All dishes are priced between $9 and $18 and are designed to share.

"The idea is that it's somewhere smart but we want it to be very affordable - we didn't want to scare people off," Shearston says.

A black and white tiled wood-fired oven from local manufacturers Beech Ovens will be baking half a dozen "rustic" pizzetta (small pizzas), including sopressa; pecorino and rocket; and pancetta with potato and rosemary.

As always with Shearston and Sanceau - who started out in bars - there's a strong drinks list, with Italian cocktails, a concise Italian beer list and aperitivi such as Aperol, Campari and Strega with suggested mixers.

"Il Viaggio del Negroni" (the journey of the Negroni) showcases the drink through its different interpretations (athough we suggest breaking the journey of nine different versions over a couple of visits).

The wine list waves the Italian flag with a mix of imports and Australian wines made with Italian varietals. Shearston says there is also a "by-request" off-list collection of more "kooky" and rare bottles, priced between $90 and $380.

In the new year, she says, they'll be offering whole roast porchetta, with 24 hours' notice for tables of more than four.

Coppa will open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Monday to Thursday from 7am-10pm; and Friday from 7am-midnight, with Saturday hours planned for the new year.

Coppa Spuntino, 88 Creek Street, Brisbane, 3221 3548.