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Just Open: Dogs Bar, St Kilda

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Dogs Bar has reopened its doors.
Dogs Bar has reopened its doors.James Boddington

Is St Kilda making a comeback? We haven't heard a lot from the seaside suburb in the past year unless something was dramatically combusting, but things are afoot.

The Saint has just reopened as St Hotel serving south-east Asian eats to a glitzy crowd. A new rum-focused cocktail bar, The Nelson, has filled the space once occupied by the terribly named Slow Down! @Harley Court.

Things are also looking up for landmark local the Dog's Bar (now Dogs Bar) which has recently reopened with new owners, new manager Lachlan Sleeman, and chef Lenny Weis on the pans. So what's changed? In some respects, not much. A lot of the original decor remains (which is either good or bad, depending on how much you liked the slightly old-fashioned fresco), and you can still sit out on the street judging burnt backpackers as they head back to their hostel. The prices are reasonable too, with 20 wines by the glass covering most bases from an obligatory New Zealand sauvignon blanc to a vintage cellar collection and a King Valley red and white on tap that won't cost you more than $30 for a large carafe.

Food-wise, no cuisine is left untouched in an effort to please all of the people, any night of the week. Expect a few hefty pastas, paellas, pork buns and buckets of prawns by the kilo. One to watch.

54 Acland Street, St Kilda, 9593 9535, dogsbar.net. Mon-Wed 4pm-late; Thu-Sun noon-1am.

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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