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Just open: Easey's and Fare, Collingwood

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Finally, the Easey's train has arrived.
Finally, the Easey's train has arrived. Jesse Marlow

Hot tip: make a website booking if you want to live out the long-hyped dream of eating burgers in a train car on the roof of End to End in Collingwood. Use the website too - they've been so slammed since opening last Friday, (they sold out of 1000 burgers by 7.30pm on Sunday, two days into operation), they've stopped answering phones.

Not to be confused with the motorcycle and barbecue bar that recently launched up the road (the Easey Street Smokeout), Easey's is the fantasy of Jimmy Hulston (aka "Jimmy's Burgers" - burger addict, author and Instagrammer) and Jeremy Gaschk.

The menu features one burger, the Easey cheesy, modelled on the McDonald's cheeseburger with the option to add cheese, bacon, extra patties and even a dim sim. There are also custard-filled doughnuts in flavours such as blue heaven, and a breakfast of deep-fried pop tarts topped with fried chicken coated in frosties. It's man versus food brought to life.

Nice and cheesy: The 'Easey's Burger'.
Nice and cheesy: The 'Easey's Burger'.Jesse Marlow
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Vegos, vegans: it's OK. Fare, the raw-focused wholefood cafe downstairs adds the yin to all this yang with Earl Grey, salted caramel and cashew yoghurt parfaits, big berry and coconut water smoothies and nori rolls made on cauliflower rice. Note: you can take the good stuff to the roof.

So is it more than a bunch of gimmicks? It's honestly too soon to try and get the measure of Easey's. The combination of all the catchwords like "Melbourne Bitter on tap" and "vintage train restaurant with graffiti program" has seen minds lost in the inner-north. They've had to install a walkie talkie-armed sentinel on the ground floor (the business runs over all levels of the building, with dining rooms and a clothing pop-up spread between the cafe and rooftop carriage, which has limited capacity of 40) to stop things getting out of hand.

Anyway. You're overlooking the majesty of Melbourne's city lights, the council flats and the hills beyond, sat in vintage seats with plaid covering that camouflages most of the clientele.

So Melbourne? The ground floor interior of Easey's and Fare in Collingwood.
So Melbourne? The ground floor interior of Easey's and Fare in Collingwood.Jesse Marlow

At one end is a bar pouring that Melbourne Bitter on tap (one of just 28 bars in the city that will hold that title) as well as some standard session lagers, cider and basic spirits into glasses made from up-cycled stubbies. The tables are inset with iPads for watching Youtube videos. The table lamps are on flexi poles, all the better to light your Instagram shot.

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Final tip: give Easey's time. Hurlston is a man of passion but it's his first week on the business end of burger sales. The cook he's pulled in is also a mate rather than a pro chef which may explain some overzealous saucing, and slightly chewy steamed buns.

48 Easey Street, Collingwood, 03 9079 5942, easeys.com.au, Tue-Thu, Sun 8am-11pm; Fri, Sat 8am-1am.

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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