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Just Open: Enquire Within, South Yarra

Hilary McNevin

Surreal wallpaper adds a cheekiness to Enquire Within in South Yarra.
Surreal wallpaper adds a cheekiness to Enquire Within in South Yarra.Paul Jeffers

There's a cheekiness to the new South Yarra dining room by chef Jason Jones and his business partners Anita Basile and Hugo Tremayne. The trio have transformed B'Stilla on Bray Street into Enquire Within, a restaurant with a fluid concept that will change every 12 months.

Surreal wallpaper – Albert Einstein with beer in his brain, Rita Hayworth thinking of clouds – adds a quirky touch, and board games (snakes and ladders, backgammon, draughts) set into the outdoor tables keep customers entertained.

The menu, by chef Florian Ribul, continues the tongue-in-cheek theme but his experience at places like Fitzroy's Hammer & Tong allows skill and technique to shine. Appetisers include popcorn lambs' brains with slaw while entrees of beef tartare with smoked egg yolk give way to mains of char-grilled prawns with broad beans and pork cheek with fennel.

Business partners Hugo Tremayne (left) and Anita Basile with head chef Florian Ribul at Enquire Within.
Business partners Hugo Tremayne (left) and Anita Basile with head chef Florian Ribul at Enquire Within.Paul Jeffers
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For dessert, it's hard not to consider the Chapel Street Sundae, with the option of fries on the side. Seriously.

Basile says the idea of constant change is to maintain interest. "Why not always be the next new place to try?" They've even put a sign behind the bar stating "Closing Soon" to keep diners on their toes.

Enquire Within is open Tuesday to Saturday from 4pm. On Sundays, the bar is open from 4pm with a menu of oysters and fries only.

30b Bray Street, South Yarra, 03 9826 2370, enquirewithin.melbourne

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