Just Open: Hoi Polloi, Canberra

Old Parliament House's hidden courtyard eatery has been reborn as Hoi Polloi, an Art Deco cafe with a democratic menu and plenty of retro touches.

The former Members' Dining Room is filled with the original tables and red square chairs that date from the 1940s, and the interior is freshened up with white walls and antique sideboards. (Hoi polloi being the term traditionally used for the masses or the great unwashed.)

There's a cocktail named after Robert Menzies, who apparently used to jump behind the bar and mix up a fierce martini for himself.

The menu is short and sweet, to cater for the admittedly huge range of visitors to the Museum of Australian Democracy at Old Parliament House.

There are small, easy plates such as a charcuterie board or smoked salmon with herbs and a kids' menu with fish fingers and pasta. The small plates can be scaled up. Or if you want a bigger meal, there are cheeseburgers on milk buns with fries, slow cooked lamb shoulders, or scotch fillets. Desserts include a passionfruit pavlova and soft chocolate with raspberry textures.

And the traditional Friday night after-work drinks will still be held in the courtyard all summer, along with Sunday jazz sessions that come complete with a roast lunch.

It's run by national hospitality group Restaurant Associates'.

The company's executive chef Andrew Collins, formerly of Taronga Zoo, is overseeing the operation with Mickael Renou as Hoi Polloi head chef.

"The whole concept around Hoi Polloi was to mix the commoners," Collins says. "You can come for a business lunch. If grandparents come with their grandkids they can have a toasted sandwich or fish fingers."

The cafe has often been a bit of a Canberra secret, tucked away at the back of the Old Parliament House building on the rear access road usually used by tradies. But Collins wants that to change.

"Hopefully it's not so much of a hidden gem and people will find out about it," he says.

Collins has also been doing some historical culinary research.

"We've been trying to work with the museum to find out what were some of the politicians' favourite dishes," he says. "The more we get, the more we're going to start incorporating that in to the menu and some of the specials. For instance, Paul Keating's favourite food was avocado so we're going to do a Paul Keating burger to really try... and carry the stories through."

Hoi Polloi is open for lunch daily. See hoipolloioph.com