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Just Open: Host, Brunswick

Hilary McNevin

Golden beetroot, goat's milk whey, celeriac leaf puree, saltbush and hazelnut.
Golden beetroot, goat's milk whey, celeriac leaf puree, saltbush and hazelnut.Kristoffer Paulsen

The art of playing host isn't lost on husband-and-wife team Nedim and Majda Rahmanovic​, who open their new dining room, not coincidentally named Host, on Wednesday.

"In our group of friends we are always the ones who love having people over, hosting people, and we want to extend that here in Brunswick," says Majda.

The couple, both trained graphic designers, sold their tiny North Melbourne cafe, Twenty & Six Espresso, in mid-2015 to do something different, taking over a laneway site on Saxon Street, Brunswick, in October 2015.

The converted warehouse features striking timber-framed booths.
The converted warehouse features striking timber-framed booths.Kristoffer Paulsen
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The former warehouse space has been given the Rahmanovic touch: cosy booths framed in timber down one side of the long room; a communal and a handful of smaller tables down the other; and an open kitchen up the back.

All the furniture is by Melbourne-based studio Moda Piera, and the walls are framed with striking sketches and paintings by Sydney-based, New Zealand-born artist Simon Kennedy.

The couple has secured as head chef Florian Ribul​, most recently at short-lived South Yarra venue Enquire Within.

Raw beef, oyster, saltbush, linseed and nori.
Raw beef, oyster, saltbush, linseed and nori.Kristoffer Paulsen

Ribul has worked good stints at Fitzroy's Hammer & Tong and The Clove Club in London. He's been asked to create a "contemporary Australian menu that reflects the eclectic nature of Brunswick", says Nedim.

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Expect dishes such as flame-grilled mackerel with shiitake and daikon; raw beef, oyster and saltbush with linseed; and braised short ribs with onion, peppers and kohlrabi.

The drinks list focuses on drops made with minimal intervention from small boutique winemakers and brewers.

Open Wed-Thu 5pm-11pm; Fri-Sun 11am-11pm.

4 Saxon Street, Brunswick; 9023 5317

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