Just Open: Hotel Lincoln, Carlton

The fact that Paul Guiney is working the floor is a pretty clear indicator that the Hotel Lincoln has changed. Guiney has run the ship for the likes of David Thompson, and he more recently clocked time as floor boss for Brooks. Now he's delivering steaks with his shirt-tails flying free.

Guiney is just one of the serious cast of characters joining MoVida Group veteran Iain Ling and Lachlan Cameron in turning the Hotel Lincoln into a serious challenger to the likes of the Builders Arms - chef Andrew McConnell's pub project.

The bar reopened a few weeks ago after some efficient renovations, but now the kitchen is firing, too. Emma Ramos (ex-Le Bon Ton) is working on cocktails to bounce off the Old and New World wine list (put together for the pub by MoVida's Lachlan Barber), while Ling and Cameron are honing a menu of pub classics, crafted with modern techniques.

Right now the menu is short and sharp; pot-sized snacks of duck liver parfaits and cheeses, bright salads with beets and pickled green tomatoes, and pint-sized eats like charred wagyu rump, salty with the addition of black olives and served with triple-cooked chips.

It's early days, but things are looking promising. Watch this space.

Open Mon-Fri noon-11pm; Sat 3pm-midnight; Sun 3pm-11pm.

Hotel Lincoln, 91 Cardigan St, Carlton, 9347 4666, hotellincoln.com.au