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Just Open: Kearns Food at the Bonython, Paddington

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

The fig, bacon and radicchio salad at Bonython.
The fig, bacon and radicchio salad at Bonython.Supplied

What do you get when you cross one of Sydney's most talented young chefs with a cafe tucked away in a leafy Paddington setting? Kearns Food at the Bonython, which as of this month is part of Glebe Point Diner's founding chef Alex Kearns' growing food portfolio.

What exactly is a Bonython? "Good question. It was an electorate in South Australia, and the name of a famous art collector. It is in John Singleton's building, and Singo is keen to keep it [the name]," Kearns says. The chef, who is building a small Sydney food empire in home-delivered meals and retail food outlets while continuing to be involved at Glebe Point Diner, argues the setting is one of the reasons he fell for Kearns Food at the Bonython (which was formerly the Bonython Cafe).

"It's near [Merivale's] The Paddington. When people find it they love it, it's a little oasis. Lots of pot plants and a retractable roof," Kearns explains. The cafe isn't trying to reinvent the food wheel, doing "eggs any style" and on-note salads. The Green Goddess [pictured] mixes chicken, freekeh, mint and lime. "There's a lot of feminine food. Healthy and fresh," Kearns adds.

The Green Goddess salad with freekeh and chicken.
The Green Goddess salad with freekeh and chicken.Supplied
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Open daily 8am-4pm.

120B Underwood Street, Paddington, 02 9397 1472

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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