Just Open: Les Bubbles bistro and The Bath House bar, Fortitude Valley

The transformation from notorious bath-house to chic French bistro and bar is complete, with Les Bubbles officially opening its doors to the public on Friday night.

The downstairs area of the Wickham Street restaurant once operated as a massage parlour called Bubbles Bath-House, while upstairs the owners ran an illegal casino. The venue came to public attention during the Fitzgerald Inquiry when the then racing minister and former police commissioner Russ Hinze​ declared that he had known of no illegal gambling dens in Brisbane, despite allegations that members of the police force had been regular visitors.

Owner Damian Griffiths has fitted out the top floor as a classic French bistro with semi-circular red leather booths, black and white tiled floors and a marble bar.

Never one to play it straight though, he's paid homage to the building's infamy with an entire wall featuring a rogues gallery of prominent figures of the '80s, many connected to Bubbles or the Fitzgerald Inquiry. There are portraits and old photos of everyone from Bubbles owners Gerry Bellino and Vic Conte, to former premier Joh Bjelke-Petersen and the jailed police commissioner Terry Lewis.

To make sure that customers understand the only happy ending is a post-prandial glass of moscato, a neon sign above the bar states: "We regret to inform you we are no longer a brothel."

Griffiths – whose growing hospitality empire includes Alfred & Constance, Limes Hotel, Alfredo's, Kwan Brothers and Doughnut Time – has chosen to offer the briefest of menus with no entrees and just a single main: "steak frites", a grass-fed steak with a leaf salad, "bottomless" fries and choice of cafe de Paris, bearnaise or green peppercorn and cognac sauce ($29.90).

There are four beers on tap, a couple of cocktails and a wine list slightly weighted toward reds, with red and white house wines available in 500ml carafes.

The dessert list is either retro or classic, depending on your outlook and features mousse, bombe alaska, creme caramel and tarte tatin.

Downstairs bar The Bath House's cheeky cocktail list includes "Hush Money", "The Full Service" and "Liquid Misconduct". You might want to bring your bathers to toast the notorious era of Queensland's history with friends in the bar's white-tiled 15-person spa.

Open daily 5pm-1am; Fri lunch from noon.

144 Wickham Street, Fortitude Valley, 07 3251 6500, lesbubbles.com.au