Just Open: Minamishima, Richmond

Nothing stays under the radar in this city for long. Melbourne eaters are such stalkers, it's harder for businesses to avoid publicity than to get it. So how is it that this new omakase-style restaurant, serving what might be the best nigiri in town, with big names behind it (renowned sushi chef Koichi Minamishima, late of Kenzan, and gun sommelier Randolph Cheung, ex-Flower Drum and the Atlantic), has managed to remain a secret for six weeks?

While they've definitely been trying to keep a low profile, specifically so they could work out a perfect symbiosis between the speed of the chefs and the timing of the sake matches, they haven't been invisible. The chairman of Toyota is sitting next to us when we're there for a first look, so the word is out among those in the know. Perhaps we're so accustomed to screamy, PR-driven openings, Minamishima has slipped in unnoticed.

It's with great hesitancy that I expose this restaurant unicorn but it's becoming a run-don't-walk situation. You're looking at a minimalist room, two sushi chefs and 15 courses of sea life – tuna belly, sea urchin, abalone, Japanese cockles - much of which has been imported from Japan, intricately scored, sometimes wasabi anointed and occasionally flamed over perfectly formed rice. Dinner is $150 a head whether you opt for the sushi bar or dining room experience (where you get a couple more hot dishes, but miss the show), with sake or wine matching available for $70.

Minamishima is open Tues-Sat 6pm-10pm. The restaurant will be closed from December 24-January 20.

Minamishima, 4 Lord St, Richmond, 9429 5180, minamishima.com.au