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Just open: Modus Operandi

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

The team: Modus Operandi Brewing's Jaz Wearin, Grant Wearin and DJ McCready.
The team: Modus Operandi Brewing's Jaz Wearin, Grant Wearin and DJ McCready.Supplied

The craft beer scene in Mona Vale has hardly been a flourishing one. In fact, until late July you could have called it non-existent.

That's when Modus Operandi rolled up its doors. Founded by husband-and-wife team Grant and Jaz Wearin, this new craft brewery, bar and restaurant is located in an industrial shed just off the suburb's main drag.

When the couple were handed the keys to the site it was little more than four (very high) walls and a few power points. Now it houses a smart-looking bar, soft leather couches and a fleet of shiny brewing tanks.

There's seven beers on tap and the promise of more to come. Two saisons are marked on the blackboard (a fruitier type of pale ale that's a small rarity in the world of Australian craft brewing).

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"We're doing US-inspired beers with a bit of Belgian twist," says Grant, who road-tripped around the US looking at other breweries for inspiration before opening his own.

"In my opinion, the States is the craft-beer mecca," he says. "We purchased an RV and did a big loop starting in California and checking out breweries in Sonoma, Oregon, Washington State, Montana, Colorado and back up to San Diego. We did some brewing in Colorado for a few weeks and got a feel for the whole industrial garage set-up we wanted to achieve with Modus Operandi."

The operation's head brewer, DJ McCready, hails from leading Colorado brewery Oskar Blues, the first craft-brewery in the US to sell beer in cans.

"We want to do a couple of brews that are hard and acidic, and taste nothing like beer," Grant says. "More like table wine. We got in a US brewer for a reason. Someone who knows trends and knows how to do those big progressive beers."

Pizzas are the backbone of a beer-friendly American-inspired menu, which also features Flintstone-sized ribs, house-made sesame and black salt pretzels, as well as crisp-fried bacon rashes served in a pint glass.

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Extra points (or pints) for a cheese platter with integrity. Young chef Connor Avery's house-made creations include beer and apple chutney, date and walnut roulade, and sorrel and rosemary lavosh. He teams them with a rotating cheese selection (the opening-week fromage was Trinity Cellars Jersey brie, Berry Creek Tarwin blue and Maffra clothbound cheddar).

If you're driving from out of the area, consider making a trip of it and drop by The Boathouse at Palm Beach as well. There are worse ideas than flipping to see who drives for beachside fish-and-chips followed by a tasting paddle or two in the afternoon.

14 Harkeith Street, Mona Vale, mobrewing.com.au

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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