Just Open: Mr Huang Jin, Melbourne

Taiwanese restaurant Mr Huang Jin, forced to close by the Rialto Tower redevelopment, has packed its bamboo steamers and shifted around the corner to the emerging Archway food precinct in Flinders Lane's west end.

The tiny new space, which seats 40 at a squeeze, features pale timbers as a design feature to evoke bamboo steamers, used to such good effect on the menu. The Collins Street menu has been condensed to focus on dumplings and a short selection of Taiwanese dishes, including fried chicken.

Dumplings, handmade on site, include soup-filled xiao long bao with paper-thin wrappers, steamed prawn shumai and pan-fried chicken and lemongrass dumplings. But they're not cheap. Xiao long bao are $11 for five or $17 for eight delicate mouthfuls.

The eatery is open Monday-Friday 11.30am-10pm and Saturday 5pm-10pm.

Mr Huang Jin, The Archway, 4-5 Katherine Place, 517 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, (03) 9629 5452.