Just open: No. 8 by John Lawson

He's worked for Gordon Ramsay in New York and Melbourne (remember the short-lived Maze?) and was head chef of Crown's Mr Hive. Now British-born chef John Lawson has his own name on the door at the No.8 restaurant in Crown.

The 10-year-old riverfront restaurant has received a renovation and a broad new wine list and menu. Lawson's food is produce-driven and very seasonal, he says. He's introduced Barwon Lamb from Geelong, Milawa ducks and almond mushrooms, a marzipan-flavoured Japanese fungus grown in Bacchus Marsh for the restaurant.

His signature dish is umami-tastic black and blue Portland tuna with black garlic, yuzu jam and aged soy, but it's important to Lawson that there's plenty of choice: "You can have a steak, a five-course degustation; there's something for everyone."

No. 8 by John Lawson, Southbank. Phone: 9292 5777, crownmelbourne.com.au/no-8