Just Open: Nora restaurant, Carlton

• Carlton cafe Nora becomes a restaurant

Self-taught chef Sarin Rojanametin still isn't getting a sleep-in. He and co-owner Jean Thamthanakorn closed the cafe side of their Carlton business Nora on February 28 (farewell Vegemite, lychee and charcoal tarts) in favour of the evening degustation dining model (also tried earlier at Nora small dinner club).

But Rojanametin is still in the kitchen from the wee hours prepping his painstakingly considered eight-to-12-course "menu-that's-not-a-menu" ($95; you don't get to see the actual menu until you leave).

Each lyrically named, Thai-influenced morsel will keep you guessing. "The whole point of not having a menu is enjoying a sense of surprise," he says. "It's a journey, from how we arrange each dish through different shapes, textures, temperatures and sizes … that's fun."

The pair have brought in a few grown-up elements to the 20-seater: quirky checkered tablecloths, a central communal table (or space for a group of eight) and what must be Melbourne's smallest bar – a stainless steel spot for two, complete with wooden saddle stools, at the edge of the new kitchen pass.

Tokyo expat Kentaro Emoto (ex-Kappo, Brooks) joins the team as sommelier, indulging a passion for natural wines with a short list of alternative varietals (wine match $65-$75). Non-alcoholic drinks really shine; Emoto and Thamthanakorn have created a boozeless "wine" match ($45-$55): think watermelon with roselle and smoked chilli.

Open Thu-Mon (sittings at either 6.15pm or 8.45pm).

156 Elgin Street, Carlton, 03 9041 8644, noramelbourne.com