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Just Open: Oter, Melbourne CBD

Nola James

Basement restaurant Oter in Flinders Lane.
Basement restaurant Oter in Flinders Lane.Michael Dodge

Forget French onion soup and steak-frites. At modern French bistro Oter, which opened in Flinders Lane on Tuesday, chef Florent Gerardin is determined to avoid cliches. Instead, he's serving contemporary "reconstructed" dishes such as leek terrine, chocolate tart and steamed fish wing, based on classic French technique..

The former Pei Modern chef is cooking in the basement that once housed Japanese restaurant Yu-u, across the laneway from sister venue Coda, with partners Mykal and Kate Bartholomew and Tom Hunter.

Gerardin says the a la carte menu will change daily (those at coveted bar seats are required to do a compulsory degustation, starting at $60) based on what the morning's deliveries bring – perhaps sea urchin with macadamia puree and puffed beef tendon – and there'll always be sweet tarts and cheeses on the bar.

A selection of dessert tarts including chocolate, lemon, cinnamon, pear, quince, and blueberry and yoghurt.
A selection of dessert tarts including chocolate, lemon, cinnamon, pear, quince, and blueberry and yoghurt.Michael Dodge
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Jordan Marr (ex-Dinner by Heston) is behind the wine list: a mid-length selection of Australian and French varietals that leans towards smaller producers, plus good Normandy ciders, including a selection by biodynamic producer Eric Bordelet.

The subterranean space has been transformed: walls pulled down between two former tatami rooms to create space for 35 alongside reclaimed street-level windows; a former teppanyaki bar surrounding an open kitchen restored to sultry glory; charcoal grey and gold-flecked murals, and lampshades and ceramics by artist Bridget Bodenham that are very quirky-Melbourne.

The team plans to open for lunches soon.

Chef and part-owner Florent Gerardin.
Chef and part-owner Florent Gerardin.Michael Dodge

Open Tue-Sat 5.30pm-late.

137 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, oter.com.au

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