Just Open: Otto Ristorante, Brisbane

What's the low down?

The Fink Group, one of Australia's most successful hospitality businesses, is dipping its toes into Queensland waters for the first time. The Sydney-based family company owns the three-hatted Quay, two-hatted Bennelong and one-hatted waterside Italian long-luncher, Otto Ristorante, in Woolloomooloo (it's also involved in partnerships with Firedoor, Beach Byron Bay and The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2016 Restaurant of the Year, The Bridge Room).

Otto Brisbane shares similar DNA to its Harbour City cousin while featuring a menu more focused on lighter, southern-Italian style dishes to suit the warmer climate. It will also feature Bar Otto, a casual eatery and bar opposite the main act operating for breakfast, lunch and after-work aperitivi.

Why should I care?

The Finks are smooth operators and this should be a tightly run ship. Very tight. Besides top-notch modern Italian cooking, you can expect a level of service likely to soar above its contemporaries. Ever been asked if you'd like a drink after you've already placed a negroni order with another member of the floor team? That won't happen here.

The Story Bridge view from the fourth floor of Dexus Property's Queen Street office block is also one of the best in town, and the dining room is equally easy on the eyes. Blue, white and primary yellow bursts between blonde wood, naval brass and Marblo resin.

OK then, what are we eating?

Italian! Fresh and summery Italian with no shortage of seafood. Otto Sydney sous chef Will Cowper has stepped up to head the Brisbane kitchen and menu highlights include butterflied sardines with fennel, pine nuts, muscatels and brioche crumbs; strozzapreti with banana prawns, garlic, chilli, black olives, tomato and calamari sauce; Goolwa pippies, with nduja, garlic, white wine, white beans and basil; and bistecchina of Rangers Valley minute steak topped with roasted tomatoes and rocket.

A much-loved Sydney special of baby barramundi with salsa verde and lemon is making the trip north too.

How much am I going to spend?

How much do you want to spend? Mains are around the $40 point but you could put a decent dent on the Diners Club by going hard on $5 oysters, the very attractive selection of primi piatti and a $75 glass of Angelo Gaja 2012 Barbaresco from a quite excellent list courtesy of former Brisbane Times Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year, Alan Hunter (you might remember him from E'cco).

You could, of course, just grab a perch at the bar, a $12 glass of valpolicella, and a bowl of gnocchi with braised rabbit and be just as happy.

Do I need to book?

For the restaurant, it would be highly recommended, yes. Although we particularly like the idea of last-minute aperitivo missions to the atrium bar.

Level 4, 480 Queen Street, Brisbane ottoristorante.com.au/brisbane

Otto Ristorante Mon-Fri noon-3pm; Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm; Bar Otto Mon-Fri 6:30am-10pm; Sat 5:30pm-late