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Just Open: Phamily Kitchen brings old-school Vietnamese to Collingwood

Gemima Cody
Gemima Cody

Colourful: Phamily Kitchen has burst on to the Smith Street scene.
Colourful: Phamily Kitchen has burst on to the Smith Street scene.Sunny Nyssen

Michael Pham of Collingwood's Tiny Cafe has just dropped a bomb of old-school Vietnamese and Smurf blue paint on Smith Street for his new project, Phamily Kitchen. When we say it's blue, we mean blue – it looks as though he threw a protective blanket over the counter then detonated your childhood.

Pham went with the ludicrously bright colour scheme, which includes a bubblegum pink ceiling, as an homage to old Vietnamese joints, which have provided much of the inspiration for the menu.

He's doing pho, along with proper fat rice-paper rolls and Vietnamese iced coffee with condensed milk, but there are also some trashy-delicious numbers we all need to get a little better acquainted with, like three-colour drinks (mung bean paste, red bean paste and pandan jelly with syrup) and a sweet braised dish featuring caramelised pork and boiled eggs with a cooking liquor containing coconut juice, fish sauce and Coke. That should be enough to stimulate your senses till the liquor licence comes in. It's open daily 11am-10pm.

Caramelised pork and egg at Phamily Kitchen.
Caramelised pork and egg at Phamily Kitchen.Sunny Nyssen

Phamily Kitchen, 374 Smith Street, Collingwood, 9417 2888, phamilykitchen.com.au

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Gemima CodyGemima Cody is former chief restaurant critic for The Age and Good Food.

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