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Just open: ramen bar Rising Sun Workshop, Newtown

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

Ramen comes three-ways at Rising Sun Workshop.
Ramen comes three-ways at Rising Sun Workshop.Supplied

Rising Sun Workshop is proof all good things come in threes. Single Origin coffee is available as black, white or filter. Tea is green, black or iced. And the ramen selection, which is what I'm here for, are The Darkness, The Light and The Monk.

Part motorbike workshop and part noodle cafe, Newtown's Rising Sun cold-drips with Lucky Peach magazine cool. White gladiolus, even whiter walls, high ceilings and a roller-door entrance opposite Camperdown Memorial Rest Park create a breezy, open space. Young Henry's longneck are the vessel of choice for table water and there's a corker of a mural depicting two screwdrivers going head-to-Phillips-head with a tsunami of ramen broth.

So how is the ramen? Owner-chef Nick Smith has applied the Rule of Three to The Light option ($15), too. First there's an organic chicken broth. All good. Things step up a notch with his dashi (the heart of any good ramen) that uses bonito, kombu, mackerel and sardines. The shio (salt component) uses pink Murray River salt, truffle salt from Alba in Italy, and black Hawaiian lava salt (there's another trio!). This all equates to a complex, corker of a ramen.

The pop-up ramen bar at Rising Sun Workshop in Newtown.
The pop-up ramen bar at Rising Sun Workshop in Newtown.Supplied
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The Darkness ramen is a tonkotsu pork-style broth that takes all day to simmer to its collagenic best and The Monk is a miso-based version that can be ordered as vegetarian and vegan-friendly. Similarly, there's a rice noodle option for diners after something gluten-free to slurp on.

Daniel Cesarano (who, like Smith, has a background at Single Origin Roasters) mans the La Marzocco and pumps out coffee from 8am. There's also a sweet range of pastries on offer including a salted caramel sponge cake and, courtesy of Strawberry Fields Patisserie, a breakfast scroll with bacon, onion and poached egg on top.

At this stage the boys are only here for a couple of months so get your motor running down to Newtown quick.

Rising Sun Workshop, Corner Lennox St and Mary St, Newtown, risingsunworkshop.com
Ramen Bar 11:30am-3pm daily, 5:30-7:30pm Thurs-Sun; Coffee and cake 7am-4pm daily (open Anzac Day)
Vegetarian-friendly, kid-friendly

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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