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Just Open: Rogue Spice Canteen and Bar, Fortitude Valley

Natascha Mirosch

Inside the new Rogue Spice Canteen in Fortitude Valley.
Inside the new Rogue Spice Canteen in Fortitude Valley.Robert Shakespeare

It's been a long wait for fans of tiny hole-in-the-wall Rogue Spice Canteen in Fortitude Valley, but finally the new digs across the road have opened.

The new, improved Rogue Spice Canteen and Bar has moved into what was previously Glass Bar in the Judith Wright Centre, while the original Rogue has been transformed into a takeaway and delivery store.

"We finally opened last Thursday," owner-chef Shannon Oey says. "I still don't have a liquor licence but I couldn't wait any longer." For the time being, patrons can BYO ($3 per person).

Lemongrass poached chicken.
Lemongrass poached chicken.Robert Shakespeare
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After Rogue came to attention of the masses at last year's Night Noodle Markets, Oey says "things changed"..

"I was losing money because we were so small and couldn't cater for groups. It was a shame because I was always having to turn away groups of 15 or 20 because I just didn't have the space. So when this opportunity came up, I took it."

It's a big step up from serving a maximum of 20 to being able to seat 68 and Oey says the small kitchen at the new venue has proven a challenge.

Signature dish: Char-grilled beef ribs.
Signature dish: Char-grilled beef ribs.Robert Shakespeare

Fans of the famous char-grilled coconut beef ribs will be relieved to know they are still a staple, along with the sticky, chilli-caramel duck with green salad; both are available in larger share plate portions.

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"It's nice to finally be able to offer share plates, it was always the one thing that was missing. I want this place to be like a modern 'warung' [a small casual restaurant] like those where I grew up in Jakarta with everyone being able to share their food."

The cash-strapped will be relieved too, that aside from 12-hour slow-cooked pork belly with star anise glaze, and salt and pepper soft-shell crab at $17.90, lunch dishes, served with rice or roti and salad, are still $15 or under.

Once the licence comes through drinks will include cocktails with an Asian flavour as well as a wine list strong on Asian-food-friendly aromatics.

The original Canteen reopened on Tuesday and is open for takeaway; local home deliveries from next week.

The new Rogue Spice Canteen and Bar is open Tue-Sun 11.30am-late. Group bookings (six or more) only after 6.30pm.

Judith Wright Centre, 420 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley, 07 3162 3350

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