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Just Open: Sartoria, Preston

Leanne Clancey

'The Necchi': sticky black rice pudding with matcha foam.
'The Necchi': sticky black rice pudding with matcha foam.Greta Costello

When industrious Sicilian couple Joseph and Carmela Agricola set up their commercial dressmaking workshop in Plenty Road in the late 1960s, Preston was a very different place. No sourdough, no espresso and definitely no negronis.

Today, with the opening of Sartoria eatery, the coffee and cocktails are flowing and Preston has officially achieved "hot-right-now" status.

After 15 years in New York City, Joseph and Carmela's daughter Adriana has come home to give the family's light-filled old building a new lease on life.

Sartoria has made a seamless entry into Preston.
Sartoria has made a seamless entry into Preston.Harry Jackson
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"For years, my father wanted me to do something with the space, but the time wasn't right," says Agricola, a trained actor and hospitality veteran. "Then I saw all the changes going on in Preston. It's definitely the right time."

The beautifully designed eatery has specialty coffee, killer cocktails and gun chef-for-hire Jason Shiong (Di Bella Coffee Roasting Warehouse, Longrain) directing the menu.

Adriana Agricola, who, with her two siblings, grew up living upstairs, clearly has a soft spot for the space and is justifiably proud of its resurrection. It incorporates quirky touches referencing the building's past as a clothing factory – think busts, sewing machines, tape measures, old photographs and reams of fabric. There's a nice 30-seat courtyard out front, too.

'The Seamstress': waffle hash brown with beetroot, pea puree and poached eggs.
'The Seamstress': waffle hash brown with beetroot, pea puree and poached eggs.Harry Jackson

Menu picks include a sticky black rice pudding with coconut and black chia jelly and matcha foam (it's called "the Necchi", after a sewing machine), and "the Seamstress" waffle hash brown with beetroot, pea puree and poached eggs.

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In true New York style, brunch cocktails are "a thing" – think mimosa, espresso martini and Agricola's take on the bloody mary, with fresh horseradish and a stick of crisp prosciutto (it's good, trust us). In a couple of weeks they'll add a daily aperitivo session with drinks and charcuterie, from 3pm-6pm.

You'll also find coffee (including batch brew and cold drip) by CBD roastery Where's Marcel?, and 5 & Dime bagels, Butterbing cookie sandwiches, pastries by Noisette and Monsieur Truffe hot chocolate.

Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm; Sat-Sun 8am-4pm.

115 Plenty Road, Preston, 03 9480 5664

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