Just Open: Smalls bar, South Melbourne

Opening a bar while simultaneously appearing on a TV show bollocking other people for doing it wrong is either a really good, or really bad idea. On the evening of July 28, Jess Ho could be seen both making Victoria's Restaurant Revolution contestants cry on the telly (she's part of the show's expert panel), and also pouring shots of Fernet-Branca at her new wine bar, Smalls, which opened last week next to St Ali in South Melbourne.

First looks indicate Ho knows what she's doing. The bar features handmade porcelain tiles and a hidden waiters' station. There's a mix of bar seats and small booths. Unlimited sparkling water is $4.

But nothing says run-by-drinking-pros better than the bar menu. It features a skillet of maximally-puffed pork skins and tendons, a croque-monsieur with truffle, and blood pudding parfait taking the place of your usual whipped chicken liver situation - same silky texture and brioche toasts, but all cinnamon-tinged morcilla in taste.

On the wine is ex-Rockpool sommelier Wiremu Andrews. He's pulled together one of the most drinkable wine lists around. It's got enough for new-wave nerds without disrespecting the industry's elders. Read: you'll as likely be drinking from European producers with 800 years experience as hitting the shiraz Andrews and Ho made with no experience last year as part of Wine Baptism of Fire – a competition for amateur winemakers.

Also on the cards are small-batch sakes and a boilermaker uniting Fernet-Branca and Mountain Goat steam ale. Portaloos are still outside for the moment, but otherwise this small package looks to deliver big things.

Smalls is open daily 3pm-11pm.

20-22 Yarra Place, South Melbourne, smallsbar.com.au