Just Open: Stanbuli Turkish restaurant, Enmore

A hundred years ago Australian and Turkish troops were fighting each other on the Gallipoli peninsula. If the goodwill that followed between the countries has been heartening, its edible poster child might just be the opening this Wednesday of Stanbuli on Enmore Road.

Ibrahim Kasif, a talented young chef who has worked in some of Sydney's best restaurants, is determined to change the way we look at Turkish cuisine.

"There's more to it than kebab shops," he says. "I hope it gets the recognition it deserves as a sophisticated cuisine."

Kasif learned how to cook seafood under Steve Hodges at Fish Face, was inspired by former boss Peter Conistis' modern take on Greek cuisine, and remains linked to Porteno, his last port of kitchen call.

"[Porteno co-owners] Elvis [Abrahanowicz​] and Joe [Valore] are very much involved and collaborating, but it's my show," he says.

Taking influence from Istanbul's casual meyhane​ eateries, Stanbuli's opening menu includes Turkey's ubiquitous fish sandwiches, street food such as stuffed mussels ("there's a real art to shucking them raw") and meat kofte wrapped in sheep's caul fat.

"Obviously working at Porteno was great training for the dishes I'll cook over hot coals," Kasif says.

With an initial opening date of mid 2015, Kasif says the old building threw several curveballs.

"In the end we've done it properly. Even the bathrooms are beautifully finished."

135 Enmore Road, Enmore. Wed-Sat 6pm-late; Sun noon-10pm.