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Just Open: Sth Central, South Yarra

Jane Ormond

Cured and warmed king salmon with watermelon, fennel and radish salad.
Cured and warmed king salmon with watermelon, fennel and radish salad.Nick Rieve

Nestled down a narrow South Yarra side street, you'll find Sth Central, the brand newbie from Leroy Smith (who spent five years managing Stokehouse) and the Tommy Collins team.

It's a neat little neighbourhood 65-seater that manages to be industrial and cosy at once.

The Molecule designed interior is a palette of granite pepped with soothing white marble kitchen bars and unexpected bursts of colour.

Sth Central's industrial interior.
Sth Central's industrial interior.Supplied
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Look for the neon peekaboo panel in the floor that illuminates the elevator shaft wine cellar, and the prettiest bespoke wallpaper in the ladies' bathroom.

Head chef Daniel Southern (ex Comme, Circa) showcases local meat and seasonal veg with earthy style – think grilled asparagus with croque-madame and asparagus mousseline, wood-fired carrots with capers and burrata, or Gippsland venison cooked with coffee and red wine.

The wine list is just on the right side of epic.

Open daily noon-midnight.

4 Yarra Street, South Yarra, 03 8679 6755, sthcentral.com.au

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