Just Open: Sugar Prawn, Collingwood

The ubiquitous Scandinavian look is noticeably absent from Sugar Prawn, the Malaysian hawker canteen that replaced Smith Street's Masak Masak last week. Named after chef and co-owner Travis Tong's late father, the place is painted prima-donna pink with a tiled, mosaic feature wall that took five people a week to assemble.

"It's all a little bit similar and safe in Melbourne," says Fred Mora, one of Tong's partners along with Alex Albrecht and Hugo Atkins (Magic Johnston Studios and Hugs & Kisses nightclub). "We're all young dudes and don't have much to lose," Mora says.

Aside from exotic cocktails and a short but diverse selection of new wave wines and Asian beers, fresh juice is available from Jasmine Jus Bar – housed within the playful space alongside an in-house radio station. But despite Sugar Prawn's individuality, it's the food that has the greatest impact.

Tong's showstopper dish is a Flintstones-esque bone, sawed down the middle to reveal buttery, master stock marrow. Served on a giant prawn cracker, the idea is to turn it into a decadent sang choi bao.

Typical Malaysian lunches are available to go, while larger plates range from sticky lamb belly to grilled stingray.

In a couple of weeks, exotic breakfasts will also be on the cards; think kaya toast washed down with black Everyday Coffee.

Open daily 8am–11pm.

230 Smith Street, Collingwood, 9417 4510, sugarprawn.com