Just open: Surry Hills Eating House

His original Spice I Am restaurant was a game changer for Thai food in Sydney and last week Sujet Saenkham opened a new restaurant devoted to the food of his childhood.

Surry Hills Eating House has opened next door to another of Saenkham's restaurants, House, on Elizabeth Street in Surry Hills.

''I grew up in Phuket. So the food is a mix of southern Thai with Chinese and Malay influence,'' he says.

The menu leans less on fiery Thai chilli and more on milder ingredients.

''There are small changes. In the fish curry paste we use turmeric instead of kaffir lime," he explains.

His mother's spice noodles have made the menu, along with a steamed chicken dish with spinach and chilli ginger dipping sauce.