Just Open: The Apo, Fortitude Valley

The Moubarak family has added another venue to its portfolio that includes Gerard's Bistro, Gerard's Bar, the Lychee Lounge, Laruche, Hatch & Co (in Brisbane and the Gold Coast), and the Defiant Duck, with The Apo opening in Fortitude Valley on Thursday.

The bar and restaurant is housed in a former apothecaries hall, dating from the 1860s.

"It's a wonderful heritage building and it's such a rare opportunity," Johnny Moubarak says. "We feel honoured to be in the building and wanted to respect the history and the architecture of it. There were some hurdles because of the heritage listing but we've had really good support from the landlord, local council and architects."

Young gun chef Braden White from Ricky's on the Sunshine Coast is running the kitchen. It's a return to the Moubarak fold for White, who headed up Hatch & Co at the Gasworks when it first opened, before leaving for Noosa.

White says the menu is "modern progressive" and will change entirely every four to five weeks. Opening dishes include storm clam, bottarga, soured cream and sea herbs; lobster brioche; and coal-grilled octopus with pig cheek and chickpea.

"I'm trying to do the basics but with a tweak or two, using different techniques, like nitrogen, charcoal grilling, fermenting, sous vide and using native Australian ingredients," White says.

Award-winning barman Pez Collier is in charge of drinks. Collier's wildly creative on-trend cocktail list features savoury ingredients such as olive oil, black sesame, cucumber "paint", black tea and white soy. There's also a tidy domestic and international beer and wine offering.

"We've tried, and succeeded I think, to perfectly balance the offerings, which is unusual in a district that's very entertainment rather than food-focused," Moubarak says.

"We want it not to be about one thing or the other, but to be about food, drink, music, art, ambience."

The Apo has been a collaborative effort, with brothers Elie (who designed the interior), Mal, and sister Katie all involved, Moubarak says.

"As a family we work together with great passion. There's a lot of bickering but when we don't agree it's up to that person to make their case and convince the others."

Open Mon-Thu 3pm-1am; Fri-Sun noon-3am; (bar food 10pm-late daily).

90 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley, 07 3252 2403, theapo.com.au

Correction: Phone number has been updated.