Just Open: The Carrington, Surry Hills

Another week, another classic Sydney pub relaunched. In the wake of the Old Clare and Newington Inn Hotel undergoing transformations, the Carrington in Surry Hills has also reopened its doors after a small hibernation.

It's no longer the fun-time tapas joint once operated by the Norfolk's Drink'N'Dine Group, which called last drinks at the Carro in August 2014. New owners Roger Gregg and Luke Butler (ex-Keystone Group managers) have instead muted the kitsch and turned up the brightness levels with hanging ferns, blonde wood and pastel cushions.

The food (designed by Glebe Point Diner executive chef Alex Kearns) is lighter than other pubs in the area. There's a cheeseburger ($18), sure, and a Greenstone Creek scotch fillet with cafe de Paris butter ($26), but there's also salt-poached chook with freekeh, pickled zucchini, green tahini and mint ($20); Hay Valley lamb shoulder with sheep's yoghurt ($24); heirloom tomato panzanella ($15); and a roast pumpkin and chickpea salad with dukkah and parsley ($16).

A handful of cocktails includes the Bloody Sophie ($16) featuring tequila, tomato juice, lime and coriander, and there's a short list of Australian and Italian wines, including a few big-ticket bottles for special occasions. Beer taps pour brews from Stone and Wood, the Rocks Brewing and James Squire.

In good news for dog owners, all pooches great and small are welcome in the front and back bars, too. The Carrington is Bourke Street's best friend once again.

565 Bourke Street Surry Hills, 9357 3734, Mon-Sat noon-midnight; Sun noon-10pm. thecarringtonsydney.com