Just Open: The Mill House bar, Melbourne CBD

Taking up residence in the basement of Tomasetti House, The Mill House is a relaxed bar and eatery that knows how to work a space.

Built in 1851 by William Degraves to house a steam flour mill, the original bluestone walls remain, enhanced by brass finishes and recycled beechwood fixtures.

Drinks include craft beers, cocktails, house-made sangria (both white and red), a concise wine list, mason jars of corn-distilled Ole Smoky Tennessee Moonshine, and Young Henrys Real Ale growlers for sharing.

The sharing theme continues through to the menu that is sectioned into small dishes and more substantial offerings.

"We are not competing with neighbouring eateries in terms of being a restaurant," owner Christian Millett says of the pub-style bar ordering system. "We wanted good quality food but also a venue that's going to transition into something busier in the evening."

Peruvian chef Augustin Ortega may have other ideas; his dishes with subtle South American influences are a definite drawcard.

Standouts include a refreshing kingfish ceviche with sweet potato cubes and zesty tiger milk made from fish stock, coriander and chilli; and the brasa (blackened) chicken rolled in deep-fried dehydrated chicken skin crumble; cover in lemon juice and eat with a piece of pickled cabbage.

Open Tues-Thurs 3pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 3pm-3am (lunch coming soon).

Basement, 277-279 Flinders Lane, Melbourne CBD, 9662 4002, themillhouse.com.au