Just open: The Swanson, Erskineville

When I think of Erskineville pubs, quality food isn't the first thing that springs to mind. I think of The Erko's free Friday night raffle, drag shows at The Impy, and jugs of Reschs at The Rose – never pork terrine, Sydney rock oysters and linen napkins.

That's now changed with a makeover of The Kurrajong Hotel – reborn as The Swanson and with Brad Sloane of Balmain's Riverview Hotel on board as executive chef.

British Inner-West Indies is the theme of choice for this new lick of paint. On ground level there's a taxidermy zebra head, Gould natural history illustrations and big leather armchairs ripe for quaffing plonk. Unfortunately there's also a tribe of flatscreens, so any equatorial ambience is lost to the hum of Fox Sports One.

The restaurant upstairs is much better. Handsome stained tables, a marble bar and a feature wall plastered in floral wallpaper from Glasgow design company Timorous Beasties.

It's familiar posh pub nosh: chargrilled spatchcock with cauliflower, bacon, sprouts, lentils and chilli ($26); potato and truffle gnocchi with peas, asparagus and pecorino ($22); and beef and ale pie with garlic mash and broccolini ($22).

That pie is also available on the bar menu downstairs. As is a sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch, clotted cream and candied walnuts ($13). The walnuts give the pud textural crunch and it's the perfect thing to consume in one of those comfy chairs by the fireplace.

Staff are chatty and good-natured, particularly a bartender who looks like he's gone into a barber shop carrying a Jack of Diamonds and exclaimed “Give me this look!” The wine list is short and serviceable (more NSW drops would be welcome) and there's a good tap selection that includes Young Henry's.

The Swanson is a welcome dining addition to the neighbourhood. It is sure to be popular with locals who are after something more from a pub than $10 steak with pepper sauce.

The Swanson, 106-108 Swanson Street, Erskineville, 9519 3609, swansonhotel.com.au
Mon-Sat 10am-midnight, Sun 10am-10pm