Just Open: Trattoria Emilia, Melbourne CBD

Gills Diner is no more but the doors to its new incarnation, Trattoria Emilia, opened late last week after some minor cosmetic changes. Terrazzo touches, hand-made Tasmanian oak tables and marble finishes have enhanced the dining room.

Chefs Luca Flammia​ and Francesco Rota (ex-Tea Rooms of Yarck) and front-of-house Matteo Neviani, who ran the floor at South Yarra's Da Noi for eight years, joined forces with Gills' owners Con Christopoulos and chef Chris Kerr to change the business' direction and turn it into a solid, quality trattoria.

The menu is heavily weighted in the new trio's home of Modena in Italy's Emilia-Romagna region; gnocco fritto​ fried pastry pillows with cured meats and pâté is a highlight, but other regions are represented in dishes such as tomato-braised tripe and cannellini​ beans from southern Tuscany, or the classic slow-roasted lamb in wine, anchovies and artichokes from Rome.

Neviani says that the team intends Trattoria Emilia to be "a classic eatery: low-key but with great service and beautiful food". The drinks list features a mix of quirky Italian and Australian wines and beers, and the front cafe and Commercial Bakery have seen very little change except for "some good Italian breakfast dishes like stracciatella (soup) and prosciutto next to the eggs and avocado".

Open Mon-Fri 7am-10pm; Sat 8am-10pm.

360 Little Collins Street, enter via Gills Alley, Melbourne, 9670 7214, emiliamelbourne.com.au