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Menus at 50 paces as restaurateurs duel for top billing

Scott Bolles and James Robertson

Success story: Guillaume Brahimi, owner of Guillaume at Bennelong has defended his fine dining model.
Success story: Guillaume Brahimi, owner of Guillaume at Bennelong has defended his fine dining model.Nic Walker

It is the gastronomic battle shaking the sails of the Sydney Opera House and its place as a foodie destination.

The appetite for accessible and inexpensive eating could claim its biggest fine dining scalp yet, Guillaume at Bennelong.

The Sydney Opera House restaurant site goes out to public tender this week, the first of several venues at the operation up for grabs, and the man in charge of the tender process has made it clear cheap eating will be favoured over fine dining.

Rumours: Justin Hemmes, with Opera House chief executive Louise Herron, is said to be scouting options.
Rumours: Justin Hemmes, with Opera House chief executive Louise Herron, is said to be scouting options.Edwina Pickles
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''Research shows 57 per cent of performance visitors want a mid-priced bistro option, only 5 per cent want fine dining,'' Opera House commercial director David Watson said. ''We'd love a bistro-style place in there.''

With Quay and Otto Ristorante owner Leon Fink and Justin Hemmes, the man behind Felix Bistro, rumoured to be scoping the site, where does it leave current operator, Guillaume Brahimi?

''I really hope he does put in a tender,'' Mr Watson said. ''He operates successful bistros in Melbourne and Perth. He's done a wonderful job as a fine dining restaurant but we want the Opera House open to more people, more often.''

Brahimi, whose restaurant has two hats and a score of 17/20 in the 2013 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide, is not convinced a bistro is what the site needs.

''I tried what they are talking about when I first came here. It didn't work,'' he said. ''I've been here 11 years, I know it better than anyone … We're full. I'm happy with where we are. If anything, I want to be more unique.''

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The chef has bagged many high-profile awards during his tenure, and veteran Sydney diners will remember the failed attempts at the site before Brahimi's arrival.

He also pointed to the availability of less expensive food elsewhere at the Opera House.

''Bennelong is what the people want it to be, and they they want it to be a fine dining restaurant,'' Brahimi said.

He will join the tender process, the winner of which will be announced later this year. Mr Watson said the company was seeking more diversity in dining options, prices and value for money but not necessarily something cheaper.

''We're looking for something that's more open more of the time and for more people,'' he said.

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The request for tender would list an indicative price of about $85 for a three-course, bistro style meal, excluding wine.

''But we're not going to be prescriptive,'' he said.

Guillaume at Bennelong

A LA CARTE

$150: Four courses

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DEGUSTATION

$195: Eight dishes

$275: With sommelier-matched wines (90ml)

PRE-THEATRE

$72: Two courses

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$89: Three courses

TAPAS

From $35

Felix bar bistro

ENTREES

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$13-$20

MAINS

$18-$36

DESSERTS

$13-$24

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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