Former schoolteacher Patrick Roberts did some breakfast and pub cooking while he was at uni and eventually decided to give up the classroom for the kitchen full-time. He opened Teriyaki Anarchy Sake at 346 Smith Street, Collingwood, about six weeks ago. He has cooked at cafes such as Martha Ray's in Fitzroy and Small Block in Brunswick, and when the opportunity came up to do his own thing, he jumped at it. Inspired by a schoolmate who was ''a bit of a misfit - he was a rockabilly from Tokyo'' - Roberts turned his attention to Japanese subcultures and has created a space that plays the Beatles and Led Zeppelin on vinyl while serving yakitori, karaage, beer and, naturally enough, sake. ''It's much less about authenticity and more about the fun of celebrating 1960s and '70s rock 'n' roll,'' he says. ''That's where the word 'anarchy' comes in.'' The 35-seater is open four nights a week, from Thursday to Sunday.

Hilary McNevin