Natascha Mirosch

Gambaro's is gone! Well sort of. Stand in front of where it once was and look across the road.

The Gambaro family has been associated with Paddington's Caxton Street since they set up their first fish and chip shop there in 1953. So you wouldn't expect them to go far while the redevelopment of their site into a boutique hotel/restaurant is under way. In fact, in a nice piece of symmetry, they've moved back into the original fish and chip site, albeit with a facelift.

For a bit of a history lesson, check out the black and white photographic feature wall in the new temporary restaurant where it's pretty much business as usual, with the same opening hours (Monday-Friday lunch and dinner, Saturday from 5pm).

Regulars will be comforted to see that, although there have been some changes, most of the old favourites are still on a menu that lets fashion and fads pass it by, sticking to its successful formula. The new restaurant in the old (new) Gambaro's site is due to open in March with the hotel slated to open next year.

36 Caxton Street, Petrie Terrace, Brisbane, 3369 9500, www.gambaros.com.au