Owen Pidgeon: How to grow and cook Jerusalem artichokes in Canberra

What is in a name? Mostly it is very important and accurate information about the fruit or vegetable. Sometimes the name is lost in translation.

This is the case with Jerusalem artichokes. They are not really artichokes and they do not come from Jerusalem. They are actually upright perennials belonging to the sunflower family and they came from North America. They have a nutty, sweet flavour and when cooked they are very tender.

The name Jerusalem is a corruption of the Italian word girasole which translates as sunflower. Their scientific name is Helianthus tuberosus which derives from the two Greek words helios meaning sun and anthos meaning flower. Historians believe the artichoke name connection is just because the flavour of this tuber is similar to the heart of the true globe artichoke.

These plants grow tubers which were often described in history as the poor man's potato but they should have their own place in kitchen cuisine. They are now appearing on the menus of fine-dining restaurants, such as the Aubergine in Griffith, so they are a good vegetable to cook with.

Jerusalem artichokes are a vegetable with high levels of iron, rating close to the levels found in red meat. Of interest, they do not produce starch but their carbohydrates are stored in the form of inulin. Inulin does produce stomach gases as it is somewhat hard to digest but it does turn out to be very suitable for diabetics. This is important to remember when cooking because if you boil artichokes they will always break down completely.

They love a sunny position and grow the best large-sized tubers in sandy loam soils. However, they will grow quite well even in somewhat harsh, rocky soil so long as there is reasonable drainage. They do like plenty of summer waterings and grow better when well mulched in the hot summer months.

Their fibrous root systems can be put to good use in naturally breaking up some uncultivated ground. The tall stems can make for a pretty screening barrier over late summer, especially when the yellow flowers burst out.

This root crop does, however, spread with vigour across any nearby land unless barriers are in place. Their root systems are vigorous and little remnants of tubers can produce new plants the next summer. So if you do decide to grow some, keep them hemmed in with barriers of timber, metal or ceramic tiles dug well into the ground. In cleaning up any space where you have grown artichokes, for another crop, dig deep to extract all small remnants of the roots and tubers.

This is one of the few root crops to be harvested in late Autumn. It is best to wait until the flowers and stems have died off completely. Then just dig up what you need for the moment. They keep much better in situ than in storage. However, there is a tradeoff at work here. You do lose freshness and flavour when stored but they become easier to digest.

Jerusalem artichokes can be roasted along with potatoes and pumpkins, to serve with roast lamb or pork. To roast, toss with olive oil and add some garlic and rosemary. You can make delicious winter soup with this root vegetable.

They can also be made into a delicious puree with cream to serve as a vegetable accompaniment. You have a choice here in preparation. Either scrub them well to clean away all soil from the skins or peel them to produce a creamier white puree. But remember that many nutritious vitamins are just below the outer skin. Where possible, we go with the natural, scrubbing option.

It is also quite easy to produce your very own Jerusalem artichoke crisps. They can be stored for later use in screw top glass jars or a good-quality plastic bag.

Jerusalem artichoke soup

600g Jerusalem artichokes
300g Nicola potatoes
2 tbs olive oil
2 brown onions
4 garlic cloves, crushed
750 ml chicken stock
2 bay leaves
150 ml pouring cream
salt and fresh ground black pepper
Optional: 400g leeks

Scrub, peel and chop the artichokes and potatoes. Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan and cook the onions and garlic until the onions soften. Add in the artichokes, potato (and leeks), chicken stock and bay leaves. Bring to the boll then reduce heat. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes, until cooked then remove the bay leaves and allow to cool for 15 minutes. Blend the soup in a food processor and return to the saucepan. Season to taste and reheat. Add the cream and serve.

Artichoke crisps

800g Jerusalem artichokes
2 tbs grapeseed oil
1 tsp salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Mix the oil, salt and pepper in a shallow bowl. Select fat artichokes and scrub very well, leaving the skin on. Slice long-ways very thinly and coat well with the seasoned oil. Place on a wire rack which is positioned over a large baking tray to catch any drips. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes, at 200°C ( 180°C if fan forced) until the chips are crisp. Cool and store into large screw top glass jars or seal into a storage plastic bag.

This week in the garden

• Plant out loose leaf cabbage seedlings. Plant broad beans, peas, kale, mizuna and rocket for winter and early spring supplies.

• Set up simple cloches to protect late-season salad greens from heavy-frost damage. If you have not been able to get your garlic planted, take time this week to plant into a raised bed, to ensure very good drainage.

• Dig in lots of compost to provide a good base.

• When the rains do not come, remember to water your evergreen fruit trees, including any citrus.

• Gather up lots of falling leaves to build a new compost heap. Add in all spent garden foliage, apart from tomato plants. Cut up large pumpkin vines and corn stalks to speed the decomposition process.

• Begin pruning fruit trees, starting with stone fruit. However avoid pruning cherry trees in winter because of high risk of disease through the cuts not healing quickly.

Owen Pidgeon runs the Loriendale Organic Orchard near Hall.