Quick bites

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This was published 8 years ago

Quick bites

By Jacqui Taffel

EAT

Two head pastry chefs, Tiffany Jones at Lotus and Sam Yeo from Black Star Pastry, have teamed up for a good-fortune dessert degustation to mark the Lunar New Year. After a savoury course of Lotus's dumplings comes a delicate palate cleanser of yuzu jelly with chrysanthemum blossom, followed by a steamed dumpling with mandarin sorbet, fresh lychee and ginger syrup, festooned with marigold petals, which represents wealth. A roll of beancurd skin filled with chocolate tofu, sesame oil caramel, black sesame and yarrow is for prosperity. Prettiest is the peony tea bavarois for longevity, which looks like an edible terrarium in a glass and tastes like white peach trifle with crunch from the raspberry tapioca cracker and an intriguing chewy bite from white fungus. Each one deftly balances sweet and tart, which somehow makes eating three desserts in one sitting perfectly fine. February 10-14, 6pm-9pm, $68 a head ($98 with matching wines), minimum two people, bookings essential. Level 1, The Galeries, 500 George Street, city, 9267 3699.

Peony tea bavarois for longevity: poached white peach, peach jelly, vanilla sponge, raspberry tapioca cracker, raspberry.

Peony tea bavarois for longevity: poached white peach, peach jelly, vanilla sponge, raspberry tapioca cracker, raspberry.

TASTE

Mother and daughter team Sandra McCuaig​ and Jane Stuart opened the Bodalla Dairy cheese factory six years ago on the NSW south coast, using milk from the dairy that's been in the family for 30 years. Sandra, now 73, started making cheeses using Australian native ingredients. Bodalla's Bush Tucker range has been picked up by Harris Farm, including Drover's Delight with lemon myrtle and Gumleaf Smoked cheddar. At a tasting assisted by my discerning colleagues, the most points went to the purple-mottled Stockwhip with wild pepperberries from Tasmania, and the tasty sage and saltbush. These are bold cheeses – the Campfire with wattleseed, currants and pepper has a fiery kick and the thyme and walnut is distinctly herbal with hefty chunks of walnut. And if you want to DIY, they run cheese-making courses, next one on March 5. Bush Tucker cheeses, $5.99 at Harris Farm Markets, bodalladairy.com.au.

FIND

Entering the narrow Christopher Robin Espresso Bar in Mortlake, I'm looking for a small rotund bear, or at least a Piglet or a Tigga. But it's named after owner Christopher Britten, and that's about the only connection to A.A. Milne and co. On a blackboard wall, whimsical chalk artwork incorporates the succinct menu, including a breakfast parfait of yoghurt, muesli, berries and honey, and pie and salad. Of the careful selection of cakes, the macadamia, chocolate and lemon meringue tarts look good, and the sugar-scattered donuts, made by local Culture by Culture bakery. The lemon ricotta is a winner with generous cups of coffee, the Edelweiss house blend by Brisbane roaster Wolff. Simple avo on toast is lifted by Riverina feta and excellent bread. After paying the very reasonable bill, stroll down to the water and along the riverside path, past the Truman Show-esque development at Breakfast Point, or catch the car ferry over to Putney. If you're lucky you might spot a Heffalump. 90 Tennyson Road, Mortlake, 9736 3082.

BOOK

Easter comes early for Sydney's cultured butter baron, as Pepe Saya's Last Supper store pops up at David Bitton's French bistro in Alexandria for a month from February 23. It will stock a delirium of dairy, from seaweed butter to mascarpone and ghee, plus Zokoko chocolate bars, South Australian Olsson's salts, Brasserie Bread Single Origin loaves, Yarra Valley caviar, Egganic eggs and, most importantly, bespoke hot cross buns. Bitton is also hosting a series of dinners on Tuesdays in March using Pepe Saya's offerings. Last Supper store open daily February 23-March 24, 36-37A Copeland Street, Alexandria. Dinner bookings: 9519 5111.

LOOK

Fans of Chinese dating show If You Are the One will already know that two Australian specials have been shot here and in China using local talent, to screen on SBS. The format, which attracts an audience of up to 50 million people, sees one bloke try to win over a potential love interest from a large panel of very picky ladies. One enterprising Australian male introduced the ladies, and host Meng Fei, to the Tim Tam slam (ie sucking up a hot beverage through a biscuit with both ends bitten off), using cups of green tea. The Chinese contestants were impressed and Tim Tams are now labelled "Australian national biscuits" in China and doing a roaring trade on messaging app WeChat. If You Are The One Australian specials, SBS 2, February 14 and 21, 7.30pm.

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