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Rockpool, Sepia and Momofuku Seiobo serve up fine dining for less

Callan Boys
Callan Boys

Sepia's Winter Chocolate Forest: available as part of the dessert degustation at the bar.
Sepia's Winter Chocolate Forest: available as part of the dessert degustation at the bar.Peter SCHOFIELD

Rockpool is Sydney's latest three-hat restaurant to offer a bar menu as an alternative - or precursor - to its full bells-and-whistles tasting “journey”, giving diners a chance to dine on fine dining fare for less.

Sepia and Momofuku Seiobo at The Star, are the other three-hat break-the-piggy-bank establishments providing a perch to knock-back pinot and a pork bun or two.

The Rockpool bar menu has a snack-sized version of its classic “rich and noble congee” with blue swimmer crab, almond tofu, star anise peanuts and Chinese fried bread for $15. Anyone who has experienced just how rich this guy is will testify that a canape-sized portion is probably enough. And because it's Oz truffle season, Rockpool head chef Phil Wood has crafted a truffle and cheddar brioche toasted sandwich. The battle for toasties supremacy in Sydney just went up a notch.

In addition to some very fine sashimi, Sepia also offers a dessert degustation over the bar. This provides sweet-tooths with an opportunity to explore chef Martin Benn's “Winter chocolate forest” without having to plow through seven-courses of savoury to get there. Sepia also has an excellent Japanese yakitori menu - cognac and charcoal-grilled chicken hearts are a winning combination.

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Reservations for Momofuku Seiobo are online only and a weekend table is harder to nab than a Rolling Stones ticket. However, the small bar seats five and doesn't take bookings. Momofuku Seiobo executive chef Ben Greeno has gifted his limited bar menu with greatness such as chicken katsu sandwiches and roasted rice cakes with XO lamb ragu. The famous steamed pork buns are available at two for $15. A word of advice: two of these buns are never enough.

Rockpool, 11 Bridge Street Sydney, 9252 1888, rockpool.com
Sepia, 201 Sussex St Sydney, 9283 1990, sepiarestaurant.com.au
Momofuku Seiobo, 80 Pyrmont St Pyrmont, 9777 9000, momofuku.com/sydney/seiobo

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Callan BoysCallan Boys is editor of SMH Good Food Guide, restaurant critic for Good Weekend and Good Food writer.

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