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The Burton takes over Universal site

Scott Bolles
Scott Bolles

Born again: Darlinghurst's Universal restaurant.
Born again: Darlinghurst's Universal restaurant.Supplied

The site of Christine Manfield's now closed Universal restaurant in Darlinghurst will be born again in late April as The Burton. The team behind the new venture appears as captivating as its food pitch of ''Mod Oz with French fusion''.

John Pye, a talented chef with Fraser Short's recently relaunched Watsons Bay Hotel on his CV, has been drafted to attend to The Burton's pans. Co-owner Adam Gordon spent time at the Piano Room and Hugos. His business partner, Karl Kazal jnr, is part of the younger generation of the Kazal food family, eight brothers who are known for their hospitality ventures at Circular Quay (including Bar 100) and friendships with overseas royalty.

Karl Kazal jnr, who worked for the family business - and all those uncles - jokes of his decision to leave: ''There were too many chiefs and not enough Indians, and I was one of the Indians.''

They did well to snare the old Universal site after neighbour Lucio Pizzeria looked set to take it late last year.

Attracted to the buzz of the courtyard position at Republic 2, the ''outdoor-indoor'' space will get a complete overhaul, apart from Universal's old kitchen, which is reportedly in fine shape.

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Scott BollesScott Bolles writes the weekly Short Black column in Good Food.

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