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Top hats and tales at Sydney Good Food Guide awards

Grand finale: Guillaume at Bennelong's Guillaume Brahimi.
Grand finale: Guillaume at Bennelong's Guillaume Brahimi.Edwina Pickles

Sydney's Guillaume at Bennelong has been elevated to three chef's hats in the new Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2014 just as the restaurant winds down to its end-of-year closure. Two of the biggest shocks of the Sydney launch last night were the demotion of Marque and Est to two hats. ''There were some disappointing moments for our reviewers at both restaurants,'' says the Guide's editor Joanna Savill.

t was also the night of the comeback, with stalwart Lucio's back to two hats and Berowra Waters Inn back to one under new operators. Porteno was demoted from two hats to one, and a posse of big names, including Otto Ristorante, 4Fourteen, A Tavola and Chiswick, are without a hat.

Savill praised the new breed. ''Just look at our best new restaurant contenders - MoVida, Monopole, Mr Wong, Kepos Street Kitchen, Gowings - all hatted in their first year of operation.'' Sepia was Sydney's Vittoria Coffee Restaurant of the Year; Ross Lusted was Citi Chef of the Year.

SCOTT BOLLES

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