Why we're running hot for chilli

South of the border, down Mexico way; That's where I fell in love
When the stars above came out to play; And now as I wander, my thoughts ever stray
South of the border, down Mexico way.
- Gene Autry

There are no stars in the sky – it is just after midday – and the mood is not exactly romantic (unless you count this reporter's affection for all things spicy), but we are definitely in a Mexican frame of mind.

Gewurzhaus is a Melbourne institution, providing hundreds of herbs and spices to Melbourne chefs of the professional, domestic and experimental varieties.

The spice house mixes and mills more than 100 unique blends on site, stocks Victoria's biggest range of dried chillies, and has a cooking school.

Gewurzhaus business development manager Alice Bell says the clear trend in Melbourne as far as using spices in cooking is the perennial favourite: Mexican.

But there has been a discernible shift from crispy tacos and packet seasonings, Bell says, towards more traditional Mexican fare: moles, complex salsas and soft tacos.

"Mexican is a big trend is Melbourne," says Bell. "We try and anticipate what is going to be the big next thing, we try and respond to the trends. Right now it is a swing away from the more tex-mex taco houses we have seen and towards a much more authentic way of eating and cooking."

The laid-back Australian lifestyle shares many similarities with the Mexican philosophy on life, Bell says, and the flavours appreciated by the two countries are also similar.

"A lot of the recent trend for all things Mexican has a lot to do with informed travel," she says.

"A lot more Australians are travelling to South America and to Mexico and they have come home looking for a food experience that is closer to what they experienced overseas.

"Also the Australian palate responds really well to freshness and bright flavours, the speed of being able to prepare a great meal is very attractive as well. It is a good match for us."

Although Mexican is one of the easiest cuisines for beginners to attempt, Bell says there are a few tricks to ensuring your meal is bang on.

"In terms of cooking with chilli, the biggest mistake people make is too much too quickly," she says.

"You can turn it up in heat but you can not turn it down. It's a little like over-salting a dish, once you go over a line there is no coming back. Go sparingly to start with and add a little to taste."

Bell says her favourite Mexican snack at the moment is a very simple one that packs a punch.

"I'm a really big fan of grilled corn with chipotle mayo – simple and stunning flavours."

What's hot – so to speak – for summer?

Salsas. "In Australia we think of a salsa as tomatoes, a bit of lime, onion and herbs – it is definitely a salsa but when you are in Mexico there are up to 50 different kinds of ready made, readily available salsas," she says.

"Tamales, beans, mango, pineapple, red, green, black – the list goes on. We are trying to introduce them slowly to the consumer."

Bring it on, we say.

'Cos our thoughts are a-wandering, south of the border, down Mexico way.

As part of The Age Good Food Month, Gewurzhaus will offer an interactive masterclass – run by American food expert Rachelle Mallik – in which a three-course chilli meal will be prepared and the flavours of nine different chillies explored. Chilli cocktail included. Details: melbournegoodfoodmonth.com.au.