Vue de Monde

Vue de Monde has always been good at theatre.

Being 236 metres above sea level helps, as do fine-dining trappings both exalted (Christofle cutlery) and modern (liquid nitrogen poured at the table).

But after four years on the 55th floor, Vue de Monde offers a more relaxed and innovative performance and the experience is better than ever.

Delicious juxtapositions of highfalutin and lowbrow are many: parson's nose – the butt-end of a chicken – is topped with caviar; barramundi cheek is extracted tableside from a yawning maw and served as finger food with garlicky duck fat 'butter'. It's luxury, but we're laughing.

Honouring Australian ingredients is a focus: marron, kangaroo and local berries and herbs are rendered with respect.

There's less veneration for the traditional progression of a meal from seafood to meat to sweet.

Chocolate turns up in a canape, crab is served just before dessert, but the journey is unerringly delightful.

And … The adjacent Lui Bar has cheapish snacks and the same view.

Vibe: Surprisingly light-hearted
Best bit: The heady haute cuisine
Worst bit: Early diners only get a two-hour booking
Drinks: Premium drinking