Brae is the biggest winner in The Age Good Food Guide 2015, leaping from zero to three hats in a single bound. Also celebrating was Matt Dempsey, whose Inverleigh restaurant Gladioli went from one hat to two, and whose Geelong newbie Tulip scored its first hat.

The Press Club, which was in transition last year, received one hat, and the Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld, unscored last year while it searched for a head chef to replace Dan Hunter, received two hats under Robin Wickens.

GOING UP

The Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld received two hats under Robin Wickens.
The Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld received two hats under Robin Wickens. Photo: Eddie Jim

Annie Smithers Bistrot (0 to 1)

The Argus Dining Room (0 to 1)

Brae (0 to 3) *NEW

Du Fermier (0 to 1)

Gladioli (1 to 2)

No. 8 by John Lawson (0 to 1) *NEW

Noir (0 to 1)

Port Phillip Estate (0 to 1)

Saint Crispin (1 to 2)

Shoya (0 to 1)

Supernormal (0 to 1) *NEW

Tani Eat & Drink (0 to 1)

Town Hall Hotel (0 to 1)

The Town Mouse (0 to 1)

Tulip (0 to 1) *NEW

Union Dining (0 to 1)

Woodland House (0 to 1) *NEW

GOING DOWN

Albert St Food & Wine (1 to 0)

Bella Vedere (1 to 0)

Brooks (1 to 0)

Grossi Florentino Grill (1 to 0)

Neilson's (1 to 0)

Scorched (1 to 0)