The Age Good Food Guide 2016 hottest trends

Melbourne marches on its stomach. Here are some of the trends we've spotted on the trail this year.

If 2014 was the year of the diffusion brand, 2015 has been about restaurants carving out ever more specialised niches. You know you're looking at an educated food city when some of the hottest openings are a vegetarian fine diner, a dedicated pasta joint, a sushi bar and a diner devoted to Nashville-style hot chicken.

The Age Good Food Guide, now in its 36th year, is an annual snapshot of Victoria's food scene. Here's what's been trending.

Good golly, it's cauli

There's still plenty of kale on menus around town but cauliflower is mounting a takeover. You'll spot it roasted whole at the Town Mouse, pureed under braised beef cheek at MoVida and masquerading as camembert at Lume.

Grillin' like a villain

Where there's smoke there's a chef installing a wood-fired oven or a charcoal grill. Pastuso is using a parrilla (grill) and smoker to fire up its Peruvian menu, Vue de Monde is sizzling kangaroo direct on smouldering logs, and Igni, the latest project from Aaron Turner (ex Loam), will be all about cooking over wood.

For heaven's sake

Japanese rice wine is staking a claim on some of Victoria's smartest drinks lists. The savoury umami character of high-quality sake makes it an ideal match for complex dishes. You'll spot it at restaurants as diverse as the Press Club, Merricote, Beechworth's Provenance and the aptly named Sake.

Tote your own

Against the odds, BYO is making a comeback. Restaurants that take pride in their wine lists, including France-Soir, Easy Tiger Smith St and Luxembourg, are offering BYO (conditions apply!) so diners can bring a special bottle.

Put a ring on it

Step aside, cupcakes and macarons. Doughnuts want your place on the cake stand. As seen on Instagram, Melbourne hearts #doughnuts, whether rings, churros, crullers, glazed or jam-filled. Check out the work of All Day Donuts, Doughboys, Candied Bakery and Short Stop.

Eat your vegies

The vegetables-in-dessert movement is gathering momentum. Brae's much-photographed parsnip "cannoli​" can't be budged from the menu, Nieuw Amsterdam checks off two trends with pumpkin doughnuts with bourbon cream, and Saigon Sally serves a tapioca corn pudding with lime granita and popcorn.

Full steam ahead

Dumpling-mania goes next level. Melburnians will queue for an hour for Din Tai Fung's signature xiao long bao soup "buns", are mad for mackerel dumplings at Shandong Mama, can't get enough of the fried pork buns at New Shanghai, and are counting until Tim Ho Wan, billed as the world's cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant, opens in Chinatown in late 2015.

Shake it 'til you make it

Restaurants used to be where bartenders went to semi-retire. But operators have realised they might want to capitalise on the craft cocktail boom. The hard stuff at Woody P, Uncle and Nant restaurants is arguably the main draw.

The Age Good Food Guide 2016 will be available for $10 with The Saturday Age on Saturday, September 26 from participating newsagents and supermarkets while stocks last. It can also be purchased in selected bookshops and online at theageshop.com.au/agegfg2016 for $24.99. #goodfoodguide