Hot Food: Eton Mess

What is it?

A deliciously summery dish of strawberries, meringue and cream, served since the 1930s at the picnic held on the playing fields after the annual prize-giving ceremony at the terribly English Eton College (think Prince William, Prime Minister David Cameron, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall).

It apparently began life as merely a mash of strawberries (and sometimes bananas) and thick cream, then somebody (allegedly Michael Smith, author of Fine English Cookery, in 1973) added crisp meringues, making it a three-ingredient hit that still resonates today.

Where is it?

At Carlton's Epocha, chef Sascha Randle serves Eton Mess on the traditional dessert trolley when she gets her hands on beautiful berries. "It's comforting and nurturing, and reminds you of being a kid," she says. She warns not to turn Eton Mess into anything more complicated than it is. "It's just three ingredients. Sometimes, it's the very simplest tastes that make you feel happy."

In Sydney, otherwise Italophile chef Nigel Ward can't resist the English charms of Eton Mess at his so-charming little Sagra Restaurant in Surry Hills. "We only run it at this time of the year when the berries are so good," he says. "I do them with my mum's pavlova meringue, our house-made mascarpone, and some berry puree, hazelnuts and burnt caramel to give it a bit of balance."

Why do I care?

Because it is the perfect balance of sweet (meringue), sour (cream) and fruity acidity (berries).

Can I do it at home?

Yes, and because it is officially called a "mess", there is no way you can stuff it up.

Eton Mess

1 punnet ripe strawberries

1 punnet raspberries

2 tbsp berry liqueur or Cointreau

2 tbsp icing sugar, plus more to serve

300ml thickened cream

100ml natural yoghurt

6 meringues

1. Hull the strawberries and cut in half or quarters if large. Toss with one tablespoon of liqueur and one tablespoon of icing sugar and set aside for 30 minutes.

2. Whiz half the raspberries to a puree with one tablespoon of icing sugar and remaining liqueur.

3. Whip the cream lightly until just firm, fold in the yoghurt, and chill.

4. To serve, roughly crush the meringue, and layer it in dessert glasses or jars with the cream, strawberries and remaining raspberries. Drizzle with the berry puree, dust with icing sugar and serve.

Serves 4

Meringue

4 egg whites (about 130g) at room temperature

pinch salt

180g castor sugar

1. Heat the oven to 120C. Use an electric hand-held mixer to beat the egg whites and salt until they form soft peaks. Add the sugar, a spoonful at a time, beating until just combined. Once the sugar has been added, continue beating for two minutes until the mixture is thick and glossy. Using two teaspoons, spoon the mixture on to two trays lined with baking paper. Place in the oven and reduce the heat immediately to 100C, and bake for one hour and 15 minutes or until crisp underneath. Turn off the oven and leave to cool in the oven for three hours. Store in an airtight container for up to three weeks.

Makes 16

Sourcing

VIC

Epocha, 49 Rathdowne Street, Carlton, 03 9036 4949

NSW

Sagra, 62 Stanley Street, Darlinghurst 02 8307,