Under $20
Azahara Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV $15
Score 86
This is a well-made party fizz, produced by the Wingara group which owns Katnook. It's clean, fresh and well turned out, with some light confectionery pinot noir aromas and a touch of sweetness that's well within balance. (12 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing Best drunk young.
Food Nuts and chips.
Stockists King and Godfree, Carlton; Parkhill Cellars, North Melbourne (Vic); Corkscrew Cellars, Darlinghurst, Red Bottle Sussex Street (NSW).
Oxford Landing Shiraz, South Australia 2013 $9
Score 87
This is a remarkable wine for the price, well coloured, with a smoky, meaty, lightly spicy aroma and medium-bodied palate. The texture is sinewy, the tannins are light and easy-going and the flavours hold more interest than most reds at this price. (13.5 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing Now to five years
Food Beef satay.
Stockists Darlinghurst Cellars, Sydney; Railway Hotel, Windsor (Vic).
$20-$35
Heemskerk Abel's Tempest Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Tasmania 2011 $32
Score 91
The colour is light straw and the aromas remind of meringue, pastry and almond icing, with a hint of vanilla. It's soft in the mouth, round and smooth, well-balanced and its acidity is soft. It seems chardonnay-driven and the clean finish lingers well. (12 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing Now to five years.
Food Crab and mayo sandwich.
Stockists Vintage Cellars stores, Sydney and Melbourne.
Pikes Traditionale Riesling, Clare Valley 2014 $26
Score 93
A baby loaded with potential. The colour is pale and its reserved, appealingly floral bouquet has a youthful yeasty note. The juicy flavour has a tickle of sweetness backed by vibrant acidity. A few months in the cellar will settle it, then drink for 10 years. (11 per cent alcohol.)
Food pan-fried flathead
Stockists Five Way Cellars, Sydney; Prince Wine Store, Melbourne.
Indulge yourself
Deviation Road Loftia Pinot Noir Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills 2012 $44
Score 92
This 70/30 pinot chardonnay is a very pleasing drink, clean and dry with a long finish. It's colour is medium brassy yellow, its bouquet nutty, creamy, nougat and meringue-like, with some lees-age complexity. Rich, deep flavour; cleansing lemony acidity. (12.5 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing Now to four years.
Food Smoked salmon blinis.
Stockists Best Cellars, Sydney; Prince Wine Store, Melbourne.
Karrawatta Dairy Block Shiraz, Adelaide Hills 2013 $38
Score 93
The colour is deep red-purple and it has a big, sweetly ripe blackberry aroma, with star anise touches. It's full-bodied, dense and fleshy, but not without elegance. Smooth texture and serious extract. (14.5 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing Best 2017 to 2029.
Food Barbecued steak.
Stockist ali@karrawatta.com.au or 08 8537 0511
Wine of the week
Mountadam Riesling, Eden Valley 2013 $23-$25
Score 95
Made from the estate's old vines, this is a delicious riesling in a fine, delicate but fully ripe style. The bouquet is sweetly citrusy and gently tropical, with a hint of passionfruit; the palate is smoothly textured yet lively, long and delicious. (13 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing Now to 2023.
Food Baked whole snapper.
Stockists Kent Street Cellars, Sydney; Bottlemart Express, Richmond (Vic), Wineseek, Melbourne.
Brew
Tuatara Hop Head Heaven American Pale Ale, New Zealand $8.99 / 500ml
Here's one for the hop heads (of which I'm one!). It is very, very hoppy and very bitter, and served very cold, it's a peerless refresher. The aroma is perfumed and floral, the taste a veritable slap in the face. And I like that. A clean, stylish beer. (5.8 per cent alcohol.)
Stockists David's Cellars, Vintage Cellars Ultimo, Sydney; Purvis Cellars, Melbourne.
Something else
Talijancich Julian James Blend No. 2 1980 Solero Liqueur Shiraz, Swan Valley $60/350ml
Score 98
With a deep tawny-amber colour, this superbly aged fortified wine has tremendous concentration and complexity. Aromas of malt, raisin and toffee; the palate very sweet and rich, in structure resembling a liqueur muscat more than a port. Huge density and lusciousness. A great wine. (18 per cent alcohol.)
Food Hard cheeses and dried fruits.
Stockist taliwine.com.au