Skater Corbin Harris tempts Daisy Dumas to Ham cafe in Cronulla

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This was published 8 years ago

Skater Corbin Harris tempts Daisy Dumas to Ham cafe in Cronulla

Skater Corbin Harris tempts Daisy Dumas south to Cronulla, where home-cooked Greek foods and healthy muesli go hand in hand.

By Daisy Dumas

WHO Corbin Harris, pro skateboarder, lives between LA, Point Piper and Cronulla

WHERE

Diners at HAM Cafe in Cronulla.

Diners at HAM Cafe in Cronulla. Credit: Christopher Pearce

HAM in Cronulla

WHY "It's short for Harry and Mario, a couple of guys I've known for the last few years. They made coffee at the best spots around Cronulla for 10 years, then they decided to go on their own. It's a beautiful place. I've been supporting the cafe ever since. They do great paninis; it's a family vibe in there, their mother cooks most of the dishes, it's home-cooked and a healthy array – a really nice atmosphere. And I think Cronulla is such a family place, it's very homey."

Corbin Harris at Bondi Skate Park.

Corbin Harris at Bondi Skate Park. Credit: Danielle Smith

WHAT "For breakfast I'd do a bob: basically a strong, smaller cup, less milk. They do a cold breakfast plate: prosciutto, hard-boiled egg, tomato, avo; and they do a feta cheese on there as well. They don't do hot breakfasts. I'd also have a spelt muesli with yoghurt and fruit salad on top."

WHEN AT HOME "I have to be a healthy eater for work. I live in LA now but when I'm back I eat at places like this. Australia in general is healthy living and the quality of the produce I get here compared to America is not even comparable. At home I try to find myself muesli with no sugar in it whatsoever, and Greek yoghurt and blueberries. For lunch I do a tuna salad, celery, carrot, rocket, red onion and avocado. In between, I have training sessions at Red Bull. I have a shake after I train. For dinner I'll do something like steamed veg; I'm in love with broccoli – my mum used to give it to me when I was five. I loved it more than chocolate.

But to be honest, I always have chocolate in the fridge. I have a glass of red wine with dinner. I may be home three days a week if I'm lucky. I try to go really fanatical when I'm at home because don't know what the next day's food will be. That's been the toughest thing about this lifestyle for me."

ABOUT "I've become the Westfield Miranda ambassador and was in America for the Aspen X Games, then Hawaii for the Vulcan Pipe Pro, which I hosted. I'm skating and hosting about 50/50. I spend as much time with my parents. I was here for the Manly Australia Open and the Sydney Bowlarama before heading to Estonia for the BMX Simple Sessions. It's been an unbelievable way to see the world: I started travelling at 16 years old and I'm now 31."

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HAM offers relaxed ambiance.

HAM offers relaxed ambiance. Credit: Christopher Pearce

HAM 3/17 Gerrale Street, Cronulla8521 7219, hamharryandmario.com Breakfast $4.50-$14.50; lunch $6.50-$15.50. $40 for two, plus drinks.

FOUR OUT OF FIVE STARS

REVIEW

I'm slightly in love. Sydney's version of the Gold Coast seems to exist in a perpetual state of holiday. Its beach and waves are less crowded than some of their more northerly sisters, its buildings are an architectural throwback to Mermaid Beach and its vibe teeters on the borderline between surf's up and manana manana. By virtue of being tucked away from the city centre, Cronulla dodges the daily grind. Among it all, HAM is one of Sydney beaches' best-kept secrets – and the reason for me being smitten.

There is really no situation that can't be improved by eating food made with proper Mediterranean home-cooking authenticity – an observation that only multiplies when combined with good coffee and a sleek, airy fit-out. We arrive at Harry and Mario Kapoulas' late in the day after a surf and long drive and with a hunger that can only come with a saltwater-filled nose and blocked ears.

Counters of home-made pastitisio, Greek salad, bread by Thoroughbread, salt-pocked five-centimetre-high brownies, friands, bowls of muesli, individual spanakopita, quinoa tabbouleh​ and paninis are topped with glass-domed plates of pink Turkish delight, pistachio-crumbed sweets and almond croissants.

They've struck upon a formula you mighn't have realised you needed until now: combining the nonchalance of a hip coffee shop and healthy all-day breakfasts with the warming embrace of Mama Kapoulas' cinnamon-scented pastitisio and wrinkled, stuffed-to-bursting peppers, plus all of the more usual suspects like big sandwiches on proper crusty sourdough. Yes, there are the ubiquitous chia seeds and Bircher muesli but there's also onion tart and jamon serrano plates and croissants by the dozen. It's all sparkling fresh and delivered with a big dose of charm on the corner spot a block back from the waves.

The winner is the bruschetta salmon, with big folds of smoky flesh, cold asparagus and dill mayo on thick slices of sourdough. It's simple and messy and perfect.

The only near miss for us is the slightly languid triangle of filo pastry-wrapped spanakopita, which needs more lemony, green oomph. Its partner of sweet and bitey relish does a good job of keeping things lively. Thick, heavy chocolate brownies are a time machine to childhood, with adult salty bits to bring things back to 2015.

There's a hive of activity where coffees are made by the team as hot meals and salads head to outside tables and into its whitewashed back room, but it feels neither rushed nor too big for its boots. Just like its home postcode, I hope it stays this way as long as it can, preserved one HAM toastie at a time.

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