Under $20
Primo Estate La Biondina 2014 $14-$16
Score: 88 Value: Good
As usual, La Biondina makes lacklustre colombard grapes into an ersatz sauvignon blanc. Passionfruit, herb and lightly sweaty aromas introduce a juicy mouthful of slightly fruit-sweet white wine, thirst-quenchingly fresh. (Screw cap; 12 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? No.
Food: Thai spring rolls; crudites.
Stockists: Dan Murphy; Elizabeth Bay Cellars (NSW).
Longhop Mount Lofty Ranges Rosé 2014 $16-$18
Score: 87 Value: Good
Warm weather is rosé weather. This old vine grenache has coppery Euro-pink colour, aromas of red berries and savoury herbal notes, then a very dry palate with a firm backbone. A rosé for food. (Screw cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? Drink over the next year.
Food: Italian cured meats; vegetable antipasti.
Stockists: Cloudwine, South Melbourne (Vic); Tom's Cellars, Pymble and Turramurra (NSW).
$20-$35
TarraWarra Yarra Valley K Block Merlot 2012 $33-$35
Score: 93 Value: Good
A Yarra merlot with dusty overtones masking summer berry, plum and savoury aromas. Oak is subtle and, while the feel is subdued, it is supple and complete in the mouth with a fine backbone of balanced tannins. (Screw cap; 14.3 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? Yes, one to eight years.
Food: Pot-roasted veal; coq au merlot.
Stockists: Decanters by the Bay, Port Melbourne (Vic); Wine Culture, Roseville Chase (NSW).
Punt Road Coldstream Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 $27-$29
Score: 93 Value: Good
The Yarra Valley obsesses with pinot, but historically cabernet has importance, too. This example ticks the boxes with blackcurrant fruit, dark chocolate and cedary threads, medium body, silky mouthfeel, and lingering, lip-smacking finish. (Screw cap; 13 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? Drink over five years.
Food: Racks of lamb roasted pink.
Stockists: Richmond Hill Cellars, Richmond (Vic); Castlecrag Cellars (NSW).
Indulge yourself
Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Semillon 2012 $36-$38
Score: 93 Value: Good
Fascinating white from Canterbury, NZ. Complex, savoury scents of lime, herbs, mandarines and almonds are followed by a vibrant, finely textured palate and super long finish. Oak adds to feel, not flavour. (Screw cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? Drink over two years.
Food: Flathead fillets; steamed mussels with white wine and herbs.
Stockists: Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne (Vic); Jim's Cellars, Woolahra (NSW).
Hollick Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 $75-$78
Score: 94 Value: Good
Top-notch Coonawarra cabernet. Blackcurrant, mint, fennel, chocolate and spicy oak aromas combine complexity with pristine varietal identity, and the medium-full palate has concentrated rich flavour and integrated fine grained tannins. (Screw cap; 14.5 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? Yes, two to 15 years.
Food: Slow-cooked beef ribs; roast leg of lamb.
Stockists: Decanters by the Bay, Port Melbourne (Vic); Wine Culture, Roseville Chase (NSW).
Wine of the week
Mount Pleasant Philip Shiraz 2011 $18-$21
Score: 92 Value: Fantastic
It's not often you get a regional classic like this around $20. It sums up all the time-honoured positive Hunter Valley traits without any traditional shortcomings. Raspberry, blackberry, earth and leathery aromas combine inviting juiciness and complexity well, and the middleweight palate has ripe flavour, perfect balance and appealing softness. A bargain. (Screw cap; 13.5 per cent alcohol.)
Ageing? Drink over six years.
Food: Steaks; Chinese egg noodles with braised beef and black bean.
Stockists: Old Richmond Cellars (Vic); Bondi Beach Cellars (NSW).
Brew
Coopers Mild Ale $3-$4 375ml
Score: 92 Value: Good
The mid-strength version of the famous cloudy South Australian beer shares the same yeast, citrus, fragrant hop and light malt characters, albeit in less powerful fashion. It's quenching and clean with a dry, hoppy finish. (3.5 per cent alcohol.)
Stockists: Dan Murphy.
Something different
Seppeltsfield Paramount Collection DP 273 Rich Rare Apera $499 500ml
Score: 98 Value: Hard to assess
A superb 50-year-old example of what used to be called Australian "oloroso sherry". Glittering amber colour, toffee, vanilla, candied orange peel, marzipan and toasted almond characters and controlled sweetness, with ultra-lingering flavours and tangy acidity.
Stockists: Seppeltsfield cellar door, 08 8568 6217 or cellarsales@seppeltsfield.com.au